just had to ressurect this thread,
an update on Eskimobobs recipe, I have done this twice now, first time it was a little light, tasted good though,
second time I used the updated version recipe, colour was spot on, it's all gone now but I bottled 12 and barrelled the rest and served it through my Angram handpull, the bottles I gave out came back with amazing reports, best beer I had done etc etc and the handpulled stuff came out even better, better than the real thing. So I can recommend, for me, this recipe worked extremely well. Thanks EB, again.
Hobgoblin Recipe
well to be truthful, I think I'm also spoiling my beers as the house gets a bit hot sometimes, but this brew came out great, same with my stouts, maybe I should just stick to darker beers as I still haven't made a brilliant light ale yet.....you know what they say, darkness hides a multitude of sins...
I have a Summer Lightning clone in a temp controlled fridge which has only fluctuated 0.5 degrees C in a fortnight, so we'll see how this turns out......bottling and barrelling at the wkend
I have a Summer Lightning clone in a temp controlled fridge which has only fluctuated 0.5 degrees C in a fortnight, so we'll see how this turns out......bottling and barrelling at the wkend
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eskimobob
If the bad head tomorrow morning dosen't get in the way, I'll be either doing this or a light BBQ guzzler,
I can only do one brew at a time with the limited space in the temp controlled fridge but it's quality I'm after now, I went brewing crazy before the hot weather started so I got approximately 180 - 200 bottles to get through before I need more,
(that lot should last at least a fortnight
)
I can only do one brew at a time with the limited space in the temp controlled fridge but it's quality I'm after now, I went brewing crazy before the hot weather started so I got approximately 180 - 200 bottles to get through before I need more,
(that lot should last at least a fortnight
)
I have also NOT brewed Orfy's recipe, I wanted to use up some hops (and to keep my lager-loving neighbor off the tap). Basically, I doubled all of the Golding adds.
This one was in the primary for 3 weeks and was primed for the corny with about 1/2 cup of corn sugar. This is destined for the beer engine.
I couldn't resist a taste and connected a standard tap for a sample. It has a wonderful malt balance with a good old Americanized bitterness.
What kind of beer have I made? ESB? BSA-bitter strong ale?
This one was in the primary for 3 weeks and was primed for the corny with about 1/2 cup of corn sugar. This is destined for the beer engine.
I couldn't resist a taste and connected a standard tap for a sample. It has a wonderful malt balance with a good old Americanized bitterness.
What kind of beer have I made? ESB? BSA-bitter strong ale?
Johnny Clueless was there
With his simulated wood grain
With his simulated wood grain
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bandit
Orfy, I noticed you dropped the progress hops and also added some black malt. How did it turn out as I am trying to build a recipe on beersmith to marry up to yours but with my standard 73% efficiency.
I am looking at this recipe
Hobgoblin II (Orfys Clone)
Brew Type: All Grain Date: 24/09/2007
Style: English Old Ale Brewer: Robert Franklin
Batch Size: 23.00 L
Boil Volume: 27.79 L Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 73.0 % Equipment: 23 litres
Ingredients Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.80 kg Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (5.0 EBC) Grain 91.6 %
0.20 kg Cara-Pils/Dextrine (5.0 EBC) Grain 3.2 %
0.20 kg Crystal Malt (120.0 EBC) Grain 3.2 %
0.10 kg Chocolate Malt (500.0 EBC) Grain 1.6 %
0.03 kg Black (Patent) Malt (1100.0 EBC) Grain 0.5 %
20.00 gm Progress [5.80%] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 11.0 IBU
20.00 gm Styrian Goldings [3.80%] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 7.3 IBU
15.00 gm Fuggles [4.50%] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 6.5 IBU
20.00 gm Styrian Goldings [3.80%] (30 min) Hops 3.2 IBU
15.00 gm Fuggles [4.50%] (30 min) Hops 3.1 IBU
15.00 gm Fuggles [4.50%] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
20.00 gm Styrian Goldings [3.80%] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 5.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs Gervin English Ale Yeast [Starter 100 ml] Yeast-Ale
Beer Profile Estimated Original Gravity: 1.060 SG (1.060-1.100 SG)
Estimated Final Gravity: 1.017 SG (1.015-1.025 SG)
Estimated Color: 26.9 EBC (23.6-31.5 EBC) Color
Bitterness: 31.2 IBU (30.0-60.0 IBU) Alpha Acid Units: 2.3 AAU
Estimated Alcohol by Volume: 5.6 % (6.0-10.0 %)
I am looking at this recipe
Hobgoblin II (Orfys Clone)
Brew Type: All Grain Date: 24/09/2007
Style: English Old Ale Brewer: Robert Franklin
Batch Size: 23.00 L
Boil Volume: 27.79 L Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 73.0 % Equipment: 23 litres
Ingredients Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.80 kg Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (5.0 EBC) Grain 91.6 %
0.20 kg Cara-Pils/Dextrine (5.0 EBC) Grain 3.2 %
0.20 kg Crystal Malt (120.0 EBC) Grain 3.2 %
0.10 kg Chocolate Malt (500.0 EBC) Grain 1.6 %
0.03 kg Black (Patent) Malt (1100.0 EBC) Grain 0.5 %
20.00 gm Progress [5.80%] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 11.0 IBU
20.00 gm Styrian Goldings [3.80%] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 7.3 IBU
15.00 gm Fuggles [4.50%] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 6.5 IBU
20.00 gm Styrian Goldings [3.80%] (30 min) Hops 3.2 IBU
15.00 gm Fuggles [4.50%] (30 min) Hops 3.1 IBU
15.00 gm Fuggles [4.50%] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
20.00 gm Styrian Goldings [3.80%] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 5.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs Gervin English Ale Yeast [Starter 100 ml] Yeast-Ale
Beer Profile Estimated Original Gravity: 1.060 SG (1.060-1.100 SG)
Estimated Final Gravity: 1.017 SG (1.015-1.025 SG)
Estimated Color: 26.9 EBC (23.6-31.5 EBC) Color
Bitterness: 31.2 IBU (30.0-60.0 IBU) Alpha Acid Units: 2.3 AAU
Estimated Alcohol by Volume: 5.6 % (6.0-10.0 %)
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mashweasel
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mashweasel
Roger that Ghost Rider. I figured something like that. I dont get any black malt character out of it which is why I ask. There is chocolate but I would say the toffee and tons of dark fruits really stand out to me. Very complex beer. Im making it soon for my beer engine. Ill taste a few more, take more notes then post my recipe. Ill see what I can get from the brewery. Anyone know what yeast they use?? Thats where Im guess most of the fruit comes from.
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mashweasel
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Orfy
I took the BYO clone then changed it to match the breweries ingredients.
I used my knowledge of the brew to get a taste that also matches.
It's been brew many times by many people and gets good reviews.
When it is green. Carbed plus 2 weeks you can taste the roastiness from the chocolate. At 4 to 6 weeks it mellows a little and it is a good brew.
I've never had it last more than 6 weeks.
I used my knowledge of the brew to get a taste that also matches.
It's been brew many times by many people and gets good reviews.
When it is green. Carbed plus 2 weeks you can taste the roastiness from the chocolate. At 4 to 6 weeks it mellows a little and it is a good brew.
I've never had it last more than 6 weeks.
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mashweasel
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mashweasel
Ok so anytime I try to 'clone' a beer I try to get all the information I possible can (the actual recipe if possible). I do get an awful lot of the info I need from drinking the beer but its best to get the info from the brewery if they will give it to you, on a tour or anywhere you can find it. I always start with a tasting and notes, then go onto the stuff Im sure about and then stuff I'm 'hypothicating' about (borrowed from Jesse Jackson) and finally the recipe.
Tasting notes
A - First hit of big fruit. Nearly candied. Very light plum pudding, fruitcake, Christmas pudding but lacks the really dark fruit character, no prunes or raisins. Very light bready malt, Slight notes of citrus, not grapefruit, more like Valencia oranges or tangerine. No buttery diacetyl, no butterscotch.
F - Fruit is very big again. Mostly plum skins, sultanas, apples. Definite 'brewers sugar' character, some bready malt character with some watered down toffee flavors, nearly cidery finish, touch of dark malt that really brightens up and drys out the finish, Light cocoa but not chocolate flavors. Quite a minerally character. The hops bitterness hits me on the back sides of the tongue only and suggest that there are lower IBUs that I am tasting. The water character really emphasizes and rounds out the bitterness, the hop flavor is quite subdued. No butter/butterscotch.
Things I know 100% sure about this beer:
OG ~1.046
FG ~1.008
ABV 5.0-5.2%
SRM > 21 (see pictures)
- Maris Otter
- Simpsons Crystal (?L)
- Simpsons Chocolate
Gypsum added for permanent hardness
Mash 65-66C x 60min
Hops
- fuggles
- bitterness
- added at 70C
- styrian goldings (slovenia)
- aroma and flavor
Boil - 60min
Whirlpool
- 15min
Cool
- 16C
Yeast:
- Wychwood strain;
- NOT Henleys strain
Ferm:
- 3-4days, cools 2 days
Cask - fine with Isinglass (5%ABV)
Bottle - chill filter (5.2%)
Things Im quite sure on:
SRM >21 = probably around 26 or so.
- Paulaner Salvator is a published 21SRM. I put it next to Hobgoblin and took pictures. Check them out, Hob on the Left, Salv on the right:
Its actually better to just look at the color projected onto the white paper.
75L crystal - Firstly, they use a crap load of whatever Simpsons they use. 2) The difference in color between the crystal and chocolate malt is very large. 3) It looks like 75L Finally, in order to get the dark fruits, the color, the 'brewers sugar' flavors, 75L seems like the best bet. If I used anything darker I would get a lot more of the plumy, sultanas that I just dont taste in this beer. Plus, the chocolate really doesn't come through a lot.
Ringwood yeast Ive used it many times before and it has the same type of character and has no diacetyl that I get when using Fullers or Bass strains. More importantly, other people have had very good success with it.
Recipe
Outline
Taking everything into account, Im going with the Simpsons 50-60L crystal. 20% of it will really give me the character I was tasting and the amount of chocolate will give me the color and just a touch of dryness.
Mashweasel's Hobgoblin Recipe
5gal @ 70% efficiency
OG - 1047
FG - 1008
IBU - 25
SRM - 26
7# Maris Otter
2# Crystal 75L
.25# Chocolate Malt
.75oz Fuggle 5.0% x FWH
.75oz Styrian Goldings 5.25% x 30min
.25oz Styrian Goldings 5.25% x 10min
Mash
151F x 60min @1.25 qt/lb
Yeast
Ringwood
Notes:
- add 2g Gypsum per gallon of water. Know your water first before adding any brewing salts.
Finally, the question remains, is this recipe 'right'? Not sure about right but its awful close. There are always 'tweeks' and changes that each brewer needs to make based on their equipment and ingredients. Really, isnt that the cool thing? Making different beers from various parts of the world on your own system?? Let me know what you think of if Im entirely off my nutter and full of bollucks.
Tasting notes
A - First hit of big fruit. Nearly candied. Very light plum pudding, fruitcake, Christmas pudding but lacks the really dark fruit character, no prunes or raisins. Very light bready malt, Slight notes of citrus, not grapefruit, more like Valencia oranges or tangerine. No buttery diacetyl, no butterscotch.
F - Fruit is very big again. Mostly plum skins, sultanas, apples. Definite 'brewers sugar' character, some bready malt character with some watered down toffee flavors, nearly cidery finish, touch of dark malt that really brightens up and drys out the finish, Light cocoa but not chocolate flavors. Quite a minerally character. The hops bitterness hits me on the back sides of the tongue only and suggest that there are lower IBUs that I am tasting. The water character really emphasizes and rounds out the bitterness, the hop flavor is quite subdued. No butter/butterscotch.
Things I know 100% sure about this beer:
OG ~1.046
FG ~1.008
ABV 5.0-5.2%
SRM > 21 (see pictures)
- Maris Otter
- Simpsons Crystal (?L)
- Simpsons Chocolate
Gypsum added for permanent hardness
Mash 65-66C x 60min
Hops
- fuggles
- bitterness
- added at 70C
- styrian goldings (slovenia)
- aroma and flavor
Boil - 60min
Whirlpool
- 15min
Cool
- 16C
Yeast:
- Wychwood strain;
- NOT Henleys strain
Ferm:
- 3-4days, cools 2 days
Cask - fine with Isinglass (5%ABV)
Bottle - chill filter (5.2%)
Things Im quite sure on:
SRM >21 = probably around 26 or so.
- Paulaner Salvator is a published 21SRM. I put it next to Hobgoblin and took pictures. Check them out, Hob on the Left, Salv on the right:
Its actually better to just look at the color projected onto the white paper.
75L crystal - Firstly, they use a crap load of whatever Simpsons they use. 2) The difference in color between the crystal and chocolate malt is very large. 3) It looks like 75L Finally, in order to get the dark fruits, the color, the 'brewers sugar' flavors, 75L seems like the best bet. If I used anything darker I would get a lot more of the plumy, sultanas that I just dont taste in this beer. Plus, the chocolate really doesn't come through a lot.
Ringwood yeast Ive used it many times before and it has the same type of character and has no diacetyl that I get when using Fullers or Bass strains. More importantly, other people have had very good success with it.
Recipe
Outline
Taking everything into account, Im going with the Simpsons 50-60L crystal. 20% of it will really give me the character I was tasting and the amount of chocolate will give me the color and just a touch of dryness.
Mashweasel's Hobgoblin Recipe
5gal @ 70% efficiency
OG - 1047
FG - 1008
IBU - 25
SRM - 26
7# Maris Otter
2# Crystal 75L
.25# Chocolate Malt
.75oz Fuggle 5.0% x FWH
.75oz Styrian Goldings 5.25% x 30min
.25oz Styrian Goldings 5.25% x 10min
Mash
151F x 60min @1.25 qt/lb
Yeast
Ringwood
Notes:
- add 2g Gypsum per gallon of water. Know your water first before adding any brewing salts.
Finally, the question remains, is this recipe 'right'? Not sure about right but its awful close. There are always 'tweeks' and changes that each brewer needs to make based on their equipment and ingredients. Really, isnt that the cool thing? Making different beers from various parts of the world on your own system?? Let me know what you think of if Im entirely off my nutter and full of bollucks.