How to Make a Mash Tun

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BlightyBrewer

Post by BlightyBrewer » Mon Feb 27, 2006 8:04 pm

That's sensible work from thermos...not insulating the lid, heat rises etc... :huh:

Thanks for the advise andy. Do you get much heat loss from your set-up?

BlightyBrewer

Post by BlightyBrewer » Mon Feb 27, 2006 8:41 pm

Improved manifold...

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Andy
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Post by Andy » Mon Feb 27, 2006 9:29 pm

BB - I get negligible heat loss over a 90 minute mash. Do make sure that you pre-heat the tun with some boiling water 15 mins or so before you're ready to add the strike liquor. Tip the boiling water out at the last minute before adding the liquor and then wait until you've reached strike temp before doughing in. That way the tun interior is nicely warmed up and the thermal gradient reduced which will keep heat losses down.

BlightyBrewer

Post by BlightyBrewer » Mon Feb 27, 2006 10:23 pm

QUOTE (Daft as a Brush @ Feb 27 2006, 09:13 PM) Nice work BB, if you find you get a lower extraction rate than expected you might try shortening the cross pieces a shade so the 2 long sections dont just pick up the stuff that channels down the side walls. (I wouldnt worry just yet though, I may not even be an issue).
Thanks DAAB, I'll do that before the long sides are soldered.

Thanks for your advice too andy.

deadlydes

Post by deadlydes » Tue Feb 28, 2006 2:17 pm

so how is the manifold connected to the tap? any chance of an explanation/close up? cheers

BlightyBrewer

Post by BlightyBrewer » Tue Feb 28, 2006 8:45 pm

Just a piece of hose forced on.

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I've improved the manifold further. Here's the final result prior to soldering the long arms:

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Andy
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Post by Andy » Tue Feb 28, 2006 10:16 pm

whoa! everytime I look it keeps changing :lol:

When's the first brew BB ?

full malty

Post by full malty » Mon Mar 06, 2006 11:15 pm

Metal 'gas tap' tank connectors will last longer than plastic taps and that's why I choose to use them.

Regarding adding extra runners to the manifold, I think the square manifold is quite efficient. I always tilt my mash tun to get maximum run-off in any case. I've got 1 litre of deadspace there.

Nice to see other people's interpretations on a cooler box design.

Can I use your images of your cooler boxes for an update to http://www.zen77887.zen.co.uk/articles/ ... shtun.html ? I'll give you full credit.

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Andy
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Post by Andy » Mon Mar 06, 2006 11:19 pm

Fine with me.

BlightyBrewer

Post by BlightyBrewer » Tue Mar 07, 2006 10:07 am

Fine with me too.

BlightyBrewer

Post by BlightyBrewer » Tue Mar 07, 2006 1:24 pm

My mash tun is complete...now nothing stands in my way on the path to AG....err, except of course SWMBO nagging me about the DIY! :o

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FlippinMental
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Post by FlippinMental » Wed Mar 08, 2006 10:27 pm

bb

i couldn't help but notice your use of the hoselock connection and reinforced plastic tubing. not wishing to tell a granny how to suck eggs but is the type of plastic on hoselock ok to use? and i had a nasty experience using reinforced hose for potable water supply once whilst caravaning - imparted an awful taste.

i'm just getting back into homebrewing after a lay-off of some 20 years. after surfing the net for what seems an age i decided to adopt infusion mash and batch sparge. have obtained a 5gal igloo drinks cooler for the mash tun for no other reason than to provide a deep grain bed filter. currently i'm struggling with the manifold / bulkhead arrangement. so far the manifold consists of a stainless steal mesh from a flexi-tap connector, stopped at one end by unsoldered copper end cap and very short piece of pipe secured with ss jubilee clip. the end has a loose fitted tap connector also secured with ss jubilee clip. the difficulty i'm having is the bulkhead arrangement. i'd like to go plastic as it is suggested that copper fittings leech heat away quicker. would appreciate any views/suggestions on how best to proceed.

BlightyBrewer

Post by BlightyBrewer » Thu Mar 09, 2006 7:37 pm

I'm not sure about whether the hoselock fitting will impart off flavors to the beer, as I haven't used my mash tun in anger yet...but andy has and he uses a hoselock fitting (I pinched the idea from him...full credit/blame* where it is due), and I don't believe he has had any problems?

* delete as appropriate ;)

BlightyBrewer

Post by BlightyBrewer » Thu Mar 09, 2006 8:06 pm

I can't be ar$ed with being paranoid...

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FlippinMental
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Post by FlippinMental » Fri Mar 10, 2006 1:30 am

thanks for that DaaB, i really like the drum tap arrangement. hopefully it can be seen from the phots that the coolers outer and inner skins come together at the tap area. it wasn't till after i had enlarged the hole to take the drum tap that it became apparent that the seal needs to be on the inner surface else fluid can penetrate between the two converging surfaces.
Image
numb from disappointment i tried a spare plastic bulkhead for size that works ok, needing me to find a suitable tap.

ImageImage

i'm considering trying to enlarge the outer skin to enable the use of the drum tap but i'm undecided about how to do this without damaging the inner skin. why even bother! i'll sleep on it.

FM

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