BEER HAND PUMP CHECK VALVE

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Beershed Brewer

BEER HAND PUMP CHECK VALVE

Post by Beershed Brewer » Fri Jan 11, 2013 11:13 pm

Hi Guys,
just bought myself one of these, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290834730564? ... 1439.l2648

Is it just a simple matter of connecting this valve between corny keg and hand pump?

Do I need do anything else? Adjust corny pressures to compensate etc.

regards

Dave

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willb
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Re: BEER HAND PUMP CHECK VALVE

Post by willb » Sat Jan 12, 2013 2:33 am

you want to fit it as close to the beer engine as possible and set your regulator to about 5 psi, also a john guest one way valve will guarentee that oxydised beer cannot get back into the system. hope this helps

JABB

Re: BEER HAND PUMP CHECK VALVE

Post by JABB » Sat Jan 12, 2013 9:51 am

willb wrote: also a john guest one way valve will guarentee that oxydised beer cannot get back into the system. hope this helps
How necessary is this? I have an Angram pump which says it has a non return valve built in but I am not sure

barney

Re: BEER HAND PUMP CHECK VALVE

Post by barney » Sat Jan 12, 2013 10:00 am

I was recommended that same valve when I installed my Angram hand pumps last year, They have been trouble free in everyday use and do what they are supposed to, ie stop a pressurised cornie from pushing the beer through the engine. I have mine connected for months at a time.

Its nice when something Just works.

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Re: BEER HAND PUMP CHECK VALVE

Post by hotmog » Sat Jan 12, 2013 11:59 am

When one of my two check valves (an old Homark one which had not been used for a couple of years) developed a leak a soon as it was connected up just before Christmas, due to failure of the internal rubber seal on the inlet, I bought one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Real-Ale-Cask ... 7675.l2557. It was slightly more expensive than the other type shown in the OP's link, but I use 3/8" beer lines and instead of the thin straight inlet and barbed outlet tails on that one, this has a much more convenient JG 3/8" push-fit inlet. The seller was also happy to oblige me by substituting a JG 3/8" push-fit for the 1/2" barbed tail outlet as well :D. Unfortunately that listing ended yesterday, but I imagine it will be relisted again soon.

These check valves are actually manufactured by Harry Mason http://www.harrymason.co.uk/htm/Detaile ... Product=77 (you need to click on Check Valves on the right-hand menu, as I cannot find a direct URL link to that page). As you can see, there are 3 variations of inlet/outlet fitting available. The one shown in the eBay listing is P/N 8/01/80A; the one I actually needed (and was supplied) is P/N 8/01/80C. However you should note that Harry Mason have a minimum order value (it used to be £30 - may be more now), so unless you are buying several items it's better if you are able to source it elsewhere.

Beershed Brewer

Re: BEER HAND PUMP CHECK VALVE

Post by Beershed Brewer » Sat Jan 12, 2013 8:13 pm

Thanks for the info gents.
My beer lines are quite short. Will consider the non-return valve.

Knowing me I'll be on eBay later buying one.

Thanks again.

regards

Dave

setmash

Re: BEER HAND PUMP CHECK VALVE

Post by setmash » Tue Jan 29, 2013 11:55 pm

Chaps quick question, do you use standard carb levels with an engine ? say 2.0 ? or keep it lower to stop foaming ?

cheers

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Re: BEER HAND PUMP CHECK VALVE

Post by hotmog » Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:52 am

I used to use a cask breather, but found that the lack of internal pressure made it difficult to maintain an airtight lid seal on my cornies. When first filling I give it a blast up to 20psi to ensure that the lid is properly sealed, then keep it at around 5psi thereafter.

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