How to Make a Mash Tun

[Andy]

Mr Mental - out of interest, where did you get the Igloo from ?

[FlippinMental]

http://www.recarda.co.uk/erol.html

link to all things igloo - like finding chickens teeth.

FM

[BlightyBrewer]

QUOTE (Daft as a Brush @ Mar 10 2006, 12:53 AM) To cut a hole in the outer skin you could use a hole saw. Because you have a hole all the way through you will need to temporaraly fill in the existing hole so the pilot drill of the hole saw is supported while cutting. I've done this before by sticking some plastic material of somesort over the hole (a piece cut from an old engine oil bottle or similar will do) with a few layers of duct tape. Obviously a gentle touch is required. If the pilot drill is long enough you can stick it on the inside, that way you can see what you are drilling.

You don't need to mess around with duct tape and bits of plastic. I just drilled a pilot hole all the way through, and drilled the inner hole with a 24mm flat bit from the inside, and the outer hole with a 32mm flat bit from the outside. The pilot hole ensures everything is lined up...worked a treat.

[BlightyBrewer]

Crikey, thos Igloo coolers are expensive!

[Andy]

QUOTE (BlightyBrewer @ Mar 10 2006, 05:02 PM) You don't need to mess around with duct tape and bits of plastic. I just drilled a pilot hole all the way through, and drilled the inner hole with a 24mm flat bit from the inside, and the outer hole with a 32mm flat bit from the outside. The pilot hole ensures everything is lined up...worked a treat.
The issue here is that there is already a hole in the igloo and therefore nowhere for the pilot drill to go DaaB's method makes a temporary wall for the pilot drill to errr, drill though.

[Andy]

QUOTE (BlightyBrewer @ Mar 10 2006, 05:03 PM) Crikey, thos Igloo coolers are expensive!
Whoa, yes! Think I'll stick with my £15 Argos jobbie for the moment

[BlightyBrewer]

QUOTE (andy @ Mar 10 2006, 05:08 PM) QUOTE (BlightyBrewer @ Mar 10 2006, 05:02 PM) You don't need to mess around with duct tape and bits of plastic. I just drilled a pilot hole all the way through, and drilled the inner hole with a 24mm flat bit from the inside, and the outer hole with a 32mm flat bit from the outside. The pilot hole ensures everything is lined up...worked a treat.
The issue here is that there is already a hole in the igloo and therefore nowhere for the pilot drill to go DaaB's method makes a temporary wall for the pilot drill to errr, drill though.
Ahh, I see. Thanks andy.

Sorry DAAB, misunderstood the whole situation there...I'm obviously "not privy to the new sh!t" (guess the film??).

[FlippinMental]

QUOTE QUOTE (BlightyBrewer @ Mar 10 2006, 05:03 PM)
Crikey, thos Igloo coolers are expensive!   


Whoa, yes! Think I'll stick with my £15 Argos jobbie for the moment



suduced by the dark side of the internet, was i. :huh: :huh:

s'pose to be the bee's knee's in coolers, them plus Rubbermaid. don't seem nothing special to me, in fact the first one delivered went back, the inner bucket way out of central. worth the money? that's subjective - probably not.

my education started on joining this esteemed forum

FM

[FlippinMental]

QUOTE (Daft as a Brush @ Mar 10 2006, 12:53 AM)To cut a hole in the outer skin you could use a hole saw. Because you have a hole all the way through you will need to temporaraly fill in the existing hole so the pilot drill of the hole saw is supported while cutting. I've done this before by sticking some plastic material of somesort over the hole (a piece cut from an old engine oil bottle  or similar will do) with a few layers of duct tape. Obviously a gentle touch is required. If the pilot drill is long enough you can stick it on the inside, that way you can see what you are drilling.

I maybe wrong but I reckon those braided manifolds would work best if they completely lay flat on the bottom ie in your particular case you would need a couple of copper elbows to lower the connection point or a piece of flexi pipe.

Like I said I could be wrong but in my mind you will only be filtering through the highest point of the braid until liquid level drops below the tap, after that you wont get any more out. Where as if the braid lay completely on the bottom you could benefit from the syphon effect. Just a thought.
would seem the best way to go, andy. i think that a bench drill, another pair of hands, and getting the cut square are the essentials on this one. still undecided on whether to attempt or not.

thanks also for pointer on manifold, re. getting the thing laying flat. will have a long look at that.

cheers

FM

[FlippinMental]

QUOTE (Daft as a Brush @ Mar 11 2006, 12:43 PM) QUOTE (FlippinMental @ Mar 11 2006, 09:32 AM)
would seem the best way to go, andy.  i think that a bench drill, another pair of hands, and getting the cut square are the essentials on this one.   still undecided on whether to attempt or not.

thanks also for pointer on manifold, re. getting the thing laying flat.  will have a long look at that.

cheers

FM
would seem the best way to go, DaaB.!!! :rolleyes:

I wouldnt mind but it takes me ages to type anything

The pillar drill and assistant isnt necessary using a hole saw The pilot hole becomes the guide. As long as you mark the hole centre correctly, using a hand drill with the feedback and the infinately fine adjustablility that you get from it is probably more suited particularly on something that isnt precision made in the first place.

At the end of the day youre only drilling a clearance hole and it only has to look right
ooops! sorry. Daab.
admitted it's a FlippinMental thing, being a control freak! i'd want to get the cut as square as i can. having a pillar drill enabling this approach, then why not - especially as the free standing FM jig is prone to swaying after a saturday night - you know what i mean!!! with my record on things like this its perhaps best if i set the job square to the cut and, 'eh presto'! start looking for another Mash Tun!!!
seriously, i take on board what your saying, and your right. i s’pose for me it’s a confidence issue.
Still considering whether to go for it (see what I mean!).

[FlippinMental]

an eventful evening. removed the outer skin from the mash tun, fitted tap, and leak tested - not a dribble. took your advice Daab and went the simple route using a battery operated drill/driver and a 35mm holesaw. good control with this type of drill/driver, went real slow. turned out perfect.

also acquired an old Swan ss boiler today, got it working but need advice on the element. will post new thread.
FM

[Road Runner]

Got myself an "Argos" mash tun yesterday, as had enough of mashing in my boiler. Also the copper pipe fittings & Hozelock attatchment. Have fitted the tap ok. Now just need to get the plumbing sorted. Think I'll also be getting one of those rotating sparge arms too.

Is somebody on here on commission with Argos? That must be several of us now with near identical mash tuns...

[Andy]

QUOTE Is somebody on here on commission with Argos? That must be several of us now with near identical mash tuns...

We are http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/item975.htm

[Road Runner]

QUOTE (andy @ Mar 15 2006, 08:47 AM)
We are http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/item975.htm

Blimey... Mine cost a lot less than £48.50 though!!!

[FlippinMental]

thanks for that, mine cost a bit less.