Gypsum and ph strips

[IPA Dude]

Right then, getting seriously F off and confused

Just started water treatment for the first time.

Boiled my water to get rid of bicarbonate etc and following GW instructions tested ph and it was way high 7+ so I added 10g of gypsum, re tested and it was was way high still. Repeated this process until I have put in 100g of gypsum into 30 ltrs! And still way high!

Any ideas?

[Horden Hillbilly]

It's the mash ph what's important.

[IPA Dude]

I appreciate that horden but if my water is 7+ before the mash what's the point even using it?

[IPA Dude]

Is it possible that the gypsum isn't going into solution?

[bob3000]

I didn't think gypsum dissolved in water. Needs to go in the mash.

Again measure your mash ph!

[Sean P]

The different grains in the mash will change the ph so you need to measure the ph in the mash rather than the water

[mabrungard]

You can't just add gypsum to water to get pH to change. Its a reaction with the malt that creates the pH reduction when gypsum is added.

[IPA Dude]

cheers everyone!

[orlando]

Starting water pH is irrelevant. In this country you will find that it is usually around 7-8. For most people who live in hard water areas lkalinity is the problem and it it that that you have to reduce. To do that there are basically 2 approaches. Using proprietary products like CRS (Carbonate Reducing Solution) or Murphy & Son's equivalent or you can use an acid of some kind (I use phosphoric). Once you have done that you can then begin to deal with which salts will give you the beer flavour profile you are looking for. Again you can go the proprietarty root, DLS (Dry Liquour Salts I think that means) or buying individual salts and using a spread sheet such as Brun' Water or Grahams calculator on here.

If you decide to go for the more sophisticated approach then I suggest you take a look at Martin's introduction to water treatment here and to have a look at this thread on here.