Am I in danger here...Buffalo Boiler mod

[judasegg]

Hey,

A while back I was having issues with my 40L buffalo, thermal fuse blew, and due to scorching during the boil, was having issues with the thermal switch as well. End result, I removed the fuse and switch, and wired things directly, using shrink tubing to protect the wiring. I actually may have used a fuse (can't remember at the moment), but if I did, it's probably one of those 200c ones.

I've been thinking about it more recently - there must be a risk that the shrink wrap will melt, wires exposed, then next thing I'm getting zapped and spilling boiling wort all over myself?

Other than putting the fuses back in and having the same issues as before, what other options are there? I was looking at ceramic connector blocks but apparently they are prone to cracking.

Cheers,
-Lee

[Blackaddler]

The fuse is there for a purpose...

[Waffty]

Heat shrink tubing is like wire i.e there are different varieties for the task in hand. As an example Polyolefin, which is the most common form out there is good to around 130°C, PTFE is good to around 170°C and Viton around 220°C.

What's also interesting is that whilst they can take different top temparatures, they all share a lower limit of around -50°C.

So to be on the safe side, I'd go for either PTFE or Viton, or failing that, look to rewire the whole Boiler with the correct wire rating and connectors.

The fuse is there for a purpose...

Good point, especially if you can get one that fits your 'revised' purpose i.e suspect it may be fused at low level, given it's orginal useage.

[judasegg]

Ok - so I pulled off the bottom of the boiler to check the heat shrink wrap. It seemed okay, but I intend to replace with a ceramic connector block. I'm also going to get a higher rated switch and attach it to the element.

BUUUT i've noticed another issue which is potentially more serious - the ceramic element itself seems to be, well, a bit melted on part of it, possibly exposing some of the element core. I've done some searches on google and come up empty. But it is very surprising, I've only done 4 brews with it, and only 2 since removing the thermal fuse and switch. I haven't had any wort caramelizing since replacing my hopstopper, which I assumed was causing things to overheat.

What am I doing wrong here? I have the boiler plugged into a 13a extension lead into normal household outlet.

I know that removing the switch probably wasn't the best idea, but I wasn't able to maintain a rolling boil with it attached.

[AnthonyUK]

Does you element look like this?



I had the same sort of issues as you and I think that the element is now only partially working.
It boils but nowhere near as rigorously as a friends one.


*That plastic connector has now been removed when I refitted the thermal fuse.

[Dave S]

My advice is replace the element and get things back to how they were when it left the factory. I've had one of these for nearly 2 years and done 23 brews. I've only had one instance of cutting out and that was on the second brew due to a build up of gunk on the element plate. If you can't get a rolling boil with a clean element plate, then I'd suggest a faulty thermostat.

[AdyG]

Hey,

A while back I was having issues with my 40L buffalo, thermal fuse blew, and due to scorching during the boil, was having issues with the thermal switch as well. End result, I removed the fuse and switch, and wired things directly, using shrink tubing to protect the wiring. I actually may have used a fuse (can't remember at the moment), but if I did, it's probably one of those 200c ones.

I've been thinking about it more recently - there must be a risk that the shrink wrap will melt, wires exposed, then next thing I'm getting zapped and spilling boiling wort all over myself?

Other than putting the fuses back in and having the same issues as before, what other options are there? I was looking at ceramic connector blocks but apparently they are prone to cracking.

Cheers,
-Lee

I'm having the same problem with mine, have a look at this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=42675&start=30

Another forum member 50quidsoundboy has removed the fuse, and thermal cut out but replaced it with a porcelain connector block and seems to be working fine after the modifications. I was planning on doing the same to mine, as generally I do not leave it unattended for long periods of time when on a rolling boil.

[judasegg]

Update - bit the bullet and bought a new thermal cutout rated for 140, and some porcelain terminal blocks. Found yet another issue, the SS base that contains the element and wiring, came loose at the seam.. Wtf im just having some crap luck here. So ive bought some jb weld to sort that. Hoping my cutout gets here from china before xmas...

[judasegg]

Hopefully this image works lol...

[AdyG]

Hopefully that will be ok, I don't think it should matter if it isn't connected all the way around anyway as long as the heat gets through the base.

I haven't got round to fixing mine yet, planning on doing a good overall over Xmas. If it goes wrong again I'm switching to gas!

[Dave S]

Hopefully that will be ok, I don't think it should matter if it isn't connected all the way around anyway as long as the heat gets through the base.

I haven't got round to fixing mine yet, planning on doing a good overall over Xmas. If it goes wrong again I'm switching to gas!

If there isn't good thermal contact between the element, (all of the element) and the plate thermal resistance will increase causing what's left of the element to overheat further. This in effect is what's happening when gunk builds up on the plate. That element looks pretty knackered and needs replacing.

[AdyG]

Hopefully that will be ok, I don't think it should matter if it isn't connected all the way around anyway as long as the heat gets through the base.

I haven't got round to fixing mine yet, planning on doing a good overall over Xmas. If it goes wrong again I'm switching to gas!

If there isn't good thermal contact between the element, (all of the element) and the plate thermal resistance will increase causing what's left of the element to overheat further. This in effect is what's happening when gunk builds up on the plate. That element looks pretty knackered and needs replacing.

Better take mine to bits and check it then, just in case it's in a similar state...

[judasegg]

while you are in there, if you could confirm which red wires go to which sides of the thermal cutout, you would be my hero. I currently have 4 red wires that used to be attached to the cutout - 1 from the mains, 2 from the power switch/light, and one very short one coming from the element...

[AdyG]

while you are in there, if you could confirm which red wires go to which sides of the thermal cutout, you would be my hero. I currently have 4 red wires that used to be attached to the cutout - 1 from the mains, 2 from the power switch/light, and one very short one coming from the element...

OK will try and get a photo of it all, maybe have a look in the next few days.

[judasegg]

Cheers Ady, I'm fairly sure that the indicator light and the mains are on one side, and the power switch and element are on the other. This would allow the indicator light to turn red when the element overheats, because the flow for the indicator wouldn't be interrupted by the cutout. That being said, I'd still very much like confirmation...