Hanmbleton Bard connection to pub CO2?

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johnmac
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Hanmbleton Bard connection to pub CO2?

Post by johnmac » Fri Mar 17, 2006 1:12 pm

Thanks to lots of advice from DaaB, I now have my nitrogen connected to my corny kegs and my CO2 available for purging containers of air and for topping up my boots aluminium barrels.

Everything is gas-tight, the boots barrel stood 50psi before I chickened out! I think its safety valve must be stuck!

My question is about getting gas into a HB valve. At the moment, I'm using parts from a "Widget Universal Barrel connector". That consists of a 1/4" brass olive pushed inside some of Chris's 3/8 pipe, an O ring around the outside of the pipe and a cap which screws down onto the HB valve and traps the O ring against the olive. It works, but it's a bit gash. It also has the disadvantage that I can't read barrel pressure.

Does anyone know of a type of valve which could be used in place of the HB inlet valve, to connect 3/8 pipe poly pipe?

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Post by Jim » Fri Mar 17, 2006 2:57 pm

Hmm, the idea of using large CO2 cylinders for my plastic barrels is quite appealing!

I have adaptors that take sparklets sodastream cylinders on all my barrels, but they are getting harder to find these days.

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Post by Andy » Fri Mar 17, 2006 6:22 pm

QUOTE (Daft as a Brush @ Mar 17 2006, 03:37 PM) although its a bit of a lump to have sticking out of your leg when it all explodes and sends shrapnel everywhere.
:rolleyes:

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Post by johnmac » Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:21 pm

Maybe this would be closer to what we need, if it's possible to get a tank connector to match: http://www.johnguest.com/part_spec.asp?s=PPSV50_D1

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Post by Andy » Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:34 pm

QUOTE (Daft as a Brush @ Mar 17 2006, 06:29 PM) How much pressure do you put in your kegs andy? It only needs to hold a regulated 2-5 psi. I've used those type of fittings on a high pressure steam service probably inexcess of 1000psi. Besides the barrel has a safety valve.

There is only 800 psi in food grade co2 kegs, before it is regulated, an HB cylinder has an unregulated 800psi of co2 in it.

Just because you dont understand something doesnt automaticaly make it dangerous!
Sorry.

One of those "joke lost on t'internet when would have worked face-to-face" type moments! B)

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Post by Andy » Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:04 pm

Group hug ? :lol:

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Post by johnmac » Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:24 pm

QUOTE I would like to identify the thread on a Corni Keg post

Maybe Norman The Keg King knows?

A tank connector into the barrel and a corny gas post permanently connected to that would be a good solution. Maybe it would be necessary to buy the tank connector in the US?

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Post by johnmac » Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:47 pm

I have an empty keg at the moment - it was made in W. Germany, but the thread dia looks like 9/16ths. I knew they'd have to be awkward :huh:

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Post by johnmac » Fri Mar 17, 2006 11:57 pm

In light of this advice from Northern Homebrewer, it looks like it was probably 19/32" If only all my Friday nights were this exciting!

Thread sizes for corny kegs

Type A [Firestone V Challenger, Firestone VI Challenger, Firestone Super Challenger]
Gas 9/16"-18
Liquid 5/8" -18

Type B [Cornelius Spartan & Super Champion]
Gas 19/32" - 18
Liquid 19/32" - 18

Type B [Cornelius R (pin lock)]
Gas 19/32" - 18 (2-pin)
Liquid 19/32" - 18 (3-pin)

Type C [John Wood 85, Older Firestone Challenger]
Gas 11/16" - 18
Liquid 3/4" - 18

Type D [Spartanburg, Firestone A, Firestone R, John Wood RA, John Wood RC (pin lock)]
Liquid 9/16" - 18 (3-pin)
Gas 9/16" - 18 (2-pin)

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Post by johnmac » Sat Mar 18, 2006 11:54 am

QUOTE Possibly the '18' is 18 Threads Per Inch

I think so. American Imperial threads are different to any of the British Imperial standards.

I think the best hope is an American supplier. Or maybe there's an easier way than using corny posts.

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Post by johnmac » Sat Mar 18, 2006 12:00 pm

http://www.northernbrewer.com/keg-repair-parts.html

Towards the bottom of the page, "corny plug adapter" I think it would still require another American fitting. Not cheap by the time you've paid postage as well.

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Post by johnmac » Sat Mar 18, 2006 2:39 pm

Can't see anything at Johnsons. Maybe this could do a fairly neat job:

http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/151-4314

The problem is, how do you arrange for quick disconnect, without using something like a corny post? I'm coming to the conclusion that it's just TFD!

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Post by johnmac » Sat Mar 18, 2006 5:24 pm

Eureka! If you have an empty Sodastream bottle and an adapter for that to fit a HB inlet valve, all you need in addition is a John Guest fitting.

Unscrew the brass fitting from the end of an *empty* sodastream bottle. The end that was attached to the bottle is 5/8 BSP female – this can be attached to the poly pipe with a suitable JG fitting. The adapter can be screwed onto the sodaseam bottle fitting as normal.

Advantages: For me, the only bit I’ll have to buy is the JG fitting. There is no need to modify the barrel – it will just keep its HB valve. Because you are using the pin valve from the sodastream bottle, gas will only flow when you push the adaptor into the HB valve.

Disadvantages: I haven’t actually tried it yet because all the plumbers’ merchants seem to be closed on a Saturday afternoon!

I'd post a photo if I knew how!

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Post by johnmac » Sat Mar 18, 2006 11:17 pm

ImageImage

Image

ImageImageImageImage

Please forgive the untidy presentation - my first go at posting hosted pics, plus the usual homebrewers handicap!

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Post by johnmac » Sat Apr 08, 2006 2:49 pm

Image

Finnaly obtained the appropiate John Guest fitting (thanks Chris), so here's a picture of the finished setup.

(gas will leak from between the JG fitting and the sodastream part, unless PTFE tape is used)

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