Extract brewing for a beginner
Extract brewing for a beginner
Last year I made some beer at home from a basic kit (plastic bucket, hydrometer, steriliser, syphon, bottle capper, brewing sugar and tin of homebrew formula). I used tapwater.
I did a first fermentation in the bucket, and then a secondary fermentation with a little more sugar in brown glass beer bottles.
It turned out well, but it did have that ‘homebrew’ taste we’re all so familiar with.
This year, I’d like to have another try, but this time perhaps move a step or two closer to doing it ‘properly’ (without going all out and buying a boiler for the time being). I’m guessing I can perhaps buy some kind of malt extract in a tin, and buy some dried hops separately and do that side of things myself? I really prefer a bitter, hoppy, light-coloured, foamy ale.
Does anyone have any tips? Specifically, any articles online that describe how to go about doing the above, and where I can buy malt extract and hops from? Also, would it be sensible to use something like campden tablets to remove chlorine from the tapwater this time? And would spray malt be better than brewing sugar for taste?
I’m trying to walk before I can run here (hence starting with a full kit beer, now moving onto something slightly more complex without going all-out and doing it all myself) and don’t know much about techniques or terminology, so it would be useful to get some fairly straightforward instructions.
I did a first fermentation in the bucket, and then a secondary fermentation with a little more sugar in brown glass beer bottles.
It turned out well, but it did have that ‘homebrew’ taste we’re all so familiar with.
This year, I’d like to have another try, but this time perhaps move a step or two closer to doing it ‘properly’ (without going all out and buying a boiler for the time being). I’m guessing I can perhaps buy some kind of malt extract in a tin, and buy some dried hops separately and do that side of things myself? I really prefer a bitter, hoppy, light-coloured, foamy ale.
Does anyone have any tips? Specifically, any articles online that describe how to go about doing the above, and where I can buy malt extract and hops from? Also, would it be sensible to use something like campden tablets to remove chlorine from the tapwater this time? And would spray malt be better than brewing sugar for taste?
I’m trying to walk before I can run here (hence starting with a full kit beer, now moving onto something slightly more complex without going all-out and doing it all myself) and don’t know much about techniques or terminology, so it would be useful to get some fairly straightforward instructions.
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
Hi and welcome to Jim's.
I'm afraid you're still going to need a boiler if you want to brew from extract. Ideally you need to boil the entire volume of the brew with the hops, then strain it off and cool it before adding the yeast. you can get away with boiling 2 or 3 gallons and adding more water in the fermenter, but it's not ideal. And if you need a 2 or 3 gallon boiler, why not go the whole hog and get a full sized one - then you can use that same boiler if you decide to go all-grain. Alternatively, you could do a smaller brew length of maybe a couple of gallons to get a feel for it.
Funnily enough, I just made an extract brew recently, and posted a Brewday thread up here. You'll probably find a few more in the Brewdays forum - they'll give you an idea of how it's done. There's also a section on the main site here, though it's a bit basic.

I'm afraid you're still going to need a boiler if you want to brew from extract. Ideally you need to boil the entire volume of the brew with the hops, then strain it off and cool it before adding the yeast. you can get away with boiling 2 or 3 gallons and adding more water in the fermenter, but it's not ideal. And if you need a 2 or 3 gallon boiler, why not go the whole hog and get a full sized one - then you can use that same boiler if you decide to go all-grain. Alternatively, you could do a smaller brew length of maybe a couple of gallons to get a feel for it.
Funnily enough, I just made an extract brew recently, and posted a Brewday thread up here. You'll probably find a few more in the Brewdays forum - they'll give you an idea of how it's done. There's also a section on the main site here, though it's a bit basic.
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
Id' personally go for DME rather than in a can, I did some with cans and still got that twang, didn't notice it using dry. You can always brew short and dilute it in the FV, would make cooling a bit easier as well for the first time without all the gear at least.
If you go dry you can get from Wilkinsons, currently 25% off, hops from your local homebrew shop if you have one or online.
For experimental brews to see if what I've done I like I use the one gallon water bottles from any supermarket for a quid, us the water supplied for brewing and the bottle as the fermenter, sure you only get 8-9 bottles or so but scaling up is easy once you're happy. Plus with such small volume if you have a crock pot, you only need a sink to cool it.
500g DME bag, and 30g of some US hop (Cascade or Citra) is enough to give you four litres of ~4-4.5% hoppy beer.
If you go dry you can get from Wilkinsons, currently 25% off, hops from your local homebrew shop if you have one or online.
For experimental brews to see if what I've done I like I use the one gallon water bottles from any supermarket for a quid, us the water supplied for brewing and the bottle as the fermenter, sure you only get 8-9 bottles or so but scaling up is easy once you're happy. Plus with such small volume if you have a crock pot, you only need a sink to cool it.
500g DME bag, and 30g of some US hop (Cascade or Citra) is enough to give you four litres of ~4-4.5% hoppy beer.
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
On the subject of the twang, according to Graham (Wheeler) the tang is a result of ageing malt extract (some kind of chemical reaction in the tin). And dried extract keeps better than the stuff in the tin, so that tallies with your experience.
If you used factory fresh tinned extract, the tang probably wouldn't be there (same would follow for kits, if this is correct, so buy from somewhere with a high turnover!).
If you used factory fresh tinned extract, the tang probably wouldn't be there (same would follow for kits, if this is correct, so buy from somewhere with a high turnover!).
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
Ah I never knew that, I'll try find source so I can test.
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
I read the extract chapters of the How to Brew book online then dived in. 4 brews in and all have been good.
I use a cheapo £15 stock pot from Wilkos, doing 10-12 litre boils which I top up with cold water in the FV.
I use a cheapo £15 stock pot from Wilkos, doing 10-12 litre boils which I top up with cold water in the FV.
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
OK, thanks everyone for the replies.
I've been busy in recent weeks, but finally had chance to sit down over the weekend, read your replies and also my copy of Home Brewing - The CAMRA Guide by Graham Wheeler.
I'm going to try one of his "basic method" malt extract brews from page 15 of the book. I do have a few more questions I was hoping you lads might be able to answer:
1. My plan is to buy a 16 litre stock pot from Wilkinsons as mentioned in Strongarm's post (they've currently got stainless steel ones for £16) for the boil. I don't have the spare cash to invest in an electric boiler at the moment, and I only have a ceramic electric hob, so I don't think (maybe I'm wrong?) I'll have much success with boiling a full 18 litres of fluid. I don't have a garage or anywhere I could realistically boil using a gas camping stove - there's no way the Mrs would let me do that indoors. So it's the electric hob or nothing. My plan was to boil up a half batch (i.e. about 11.5 litres as opposed to the 23 litres given in the recipes in the book). Does this sound sensible? Alternatively, is there any reason I couldn't just make a "concentrated" boil of 11.5 litres, and then top it up with 11.5 litres of pre-boiled and cooled water in my fermenting bin - Jim mentions this isn't ideal?
2. If I only make an 11.5 litre batch, my fermentation bin is 30 litres. Is there any "harm" that could be done by having so much air in the barrel with the beer while it ferments?
3. During my last (all kit) brew, my secondary fermentation took place in bottles. There was quite a bit of sediment in them, although it was easy enough to pour without it getting into the glass. However, Graham Wheeler's book recommends that secondary fermentation takes place in a separate vessel. I am assuming it's best to do this at pressure with some extra DME or sugar in order to get some CO2 into the beer. Wilkinson's are selling 23 litre pressure barrels. Would this do the job, and I could then transfer to bottles afterwards, again with a spoonful of DME or sugar? If I only do an 11.5 litre batch, there will be a large air gap in the barrel. Would this be a problem?
I've been busy in recent weeks, but finally had chance to sit down over the weekend, read your replies and also my copy of Home Brewing - The CAMRA Guide by Graham Wheeler.
I'm going to try one of his "basic method" malt extract brews from page 15 of the book. I do have a few more questions I was hoping you lads might be able to answer:
1. My plan is to buy a 16 litre stock pot from Wilkinsons as mentioned in Strongarm's post (they've currently got stainless steel ones for £16) for the boil. I don't have the spare cash to invest in an electric boiler at the moment, and I only have a ceramic electric hob, so I don't think (maybe I'm wrong?) I'll have much success with boiling a full 18 litres of fluid. I don't have a garage or anywhere I could realistically boil using a gas camping stove - there's no way the Mrs would let me do that indoors. So it's the electric hob or nothing. My plan was to boil up a half batch (i.e. about 11.5 litres as opposed to the 23 litres given in the recipes in the book). Does this sound sensible? Alternatively, is there any reason I couldn't just make a "concentrated" boil of 11.5 litres, and then top it up with 11.5 litres of pre-boiled and cooled water in my fermenting bin - Jim mentions this isn't ideal?
2. If I only make an 11.5 litre batch, my fermentation bin is 30 litres. Is there any "harm" that could be done by having so much air in the barrel with the beer while it ferments?
3. During my last (all kit) brew, my secondary fermentation took place in bottles. There was quite a bit of sediment in them, although it was easy enough to pour without it getting into the glass. However, Graham Wheeler's book recommends that secondary fermentation takes place in a separate vessel. I am assuming it's best to do this at pressure with some extra DME or sugar in order to get some CO2 into the beer. Wilkinson's are selling 23 litre pressure barrels. Would this do the job, and I could then transfer to bottles afterwards, again with a spoonful of DME or sugar? If I only do an 11.5 litre batch, there will be a large air gap in the barrel. Would this be a problem?
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
My method of extract brewing was to start with 12 litres of water and top up with mineral water to the required volume so your method sounds spot on to me. Tap water is also ok, unless your water is not too good. Asda so filtered tap water for 19p or so for 2 litres, that's what I used.
With regard to your second question, there is no issue with what you are proposing but I assume that you will top up with water to 23 litres?
Third question. I still secondary ferment in bottles with a coopers sugar drop in each bottle. I am unsure of what you are describing but it sounds like batch priming, where you mix the sugar in to the fermented beer prior to bottling rather than letting it ferment a second time in the vessel.
With regard to extract brewing, I suggest you go to brewuk and search for their 'way to amarillo' recipe, this was the way I did my first extract and I haven't looked back.
Enjoy your brew.
With regard to your second question, there is no issue with what you are proposing but I assume that you will top up with water to 23 litres?
Third question. I still secondary ferment in bottles with a coopers sugar drop in each bottle. I am unsure of what you are describing but it sounds like batch priming, where you mix the sugar in to the fermented beer prior to bottling rather than letting it ferment a second time in the vessel.
With regard to extract brewing, I suggest you go to brewuk and search for their 'way to amarillo' recipe, this was the way I did my first extract and I haven't looked back.
Enjoy your brew.
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
Thanks Barry. Sorry for the confusion - with the second question, what I meant was, if I *don't* top up to 23 litres, and just do a smaller brew of say 11.5 litres, will there be an issue with using a fermenting bin with a load of air and not much liquid in it? I might actually decide I'd prefer to do smaller batches, because I don't actually drink beer that fast, and it means I can experiment with different recipes more often!
And what I meant in the third question was - Graham Wheeler's book recommends NOT doing the secondary fermentation in bottles. He says this should be done in a separate barrel, and then bottled afterwards. So, I'm wondering do I need to do this at pressure, e.g. in one of Wilkinson's pressure barrels (which are 20 quid or so), or can I do it in a cheaper second fermentation bin. And do I need to add extra sugar at this step, or do I only do this when I bottle?
And what I meant in the third question was - Graham Wheeler's book recommends NOT doing the secondary fermentation in bottles. He says this should be done in a separate barrel, and then bottled afterwards. So, I'm wondering do I need to do this at pressure, e.g. in one of Wilkinson's pressure barrels (which are 20 quid or so), or can I do it in a cheaper second fermentation bin. And do I need to add extra sugar at this step, or do I only do this when I bottle?
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
No worries mate.
The fv will be fine no matter what you put into it.
I can't comment on the secondary fermentation issue as I don't know any other way than doing it in the bottle.
I'm sure someone else will be around to assist you in due course.
The fv will be fine no matter what you put into it.
I can't comment on the secondary fermentation issue as I don't know any other way than doing it in the bottle.
I'm sure someone else will be around to assist you in due course.
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
YOu should be fine. The yeast head will cover the brew once fermentation gets going properly and also the CO2 produced will fill the space up.pottolom wrote:Thanks Barry. Sorry for the confusion - with the second question, what I meant was, if I *don't* top up to 23 litres, and just do a smaller brew of say 11.5 litres, will there be an issue with using a fermenting bin with a load of air and not much liquid in it? I might actually decide I'd prefer to do smaller batches, because I don't actually drink beer that fast, and it means I can experiment with different recipes more often!
What Graham recommends may well be good practice, but you won't find many home brewers doing it. Most HBers will rack from primary into a bottling bucket, mix in the priming sugar, and then immediately transfer to bottles from that (usually using a bottling stick).pottolom wrote:And what I meant in the third question was - Graham Wheeler's book recommends NOT doing the secondary fermentation in bottles. He says this should be done in a separate barrel, and then bottled afterwards. So, I'm wondering do I need to do this at pressure, e.g. in one of Wilkinson's pressure barrels (which are 20 quid or so), or can I do it in a cheaper second fermentation bin. And do I need to add extra sugar at this step, or do I only do this when I bottle?
Provided you leave your beer in the primary for at least a week after primary fermentation is finished you won't have any problems with either excessive yeast in suspension or unwanted volatiles (I leave my for 2 weeks after pitching, which is quite long enough).
Graham's method involves venting the cask the day prior to bottling, so the amount of gas left in the beer at bottling will be uncertain, and some is bound to be lost when you transfer to the bottles, potentially causing foaming. The only way to avoid that would be to use something like a Blichmann beer gun to transfer the conditioned beer into the bottles under pressure, which is a pretty expensive solution.
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
Just to back Jim up, most of us leave in primary for two weeks, then rack to a bottling bucket.
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
I took this recommendation to mean the process that some like to do when brewing, ie racking the partially fermented beer into a clean (2nd) FV after the initial fermentation is 'nearly' finished, ie after a 5-7 days, then leave it in the 2nd FV to complete the fermentation and let the yeast clean up having left the main trub behind in the first FV.pottolom wrote:3. During my last (all kit) brew, my secondary fermentation took place in bottles. There was quite a bit of sediment in them, although it was easy enough to pour without it getting into the glass. However, Graham Wheeler's book recommends that secondary fermentation takes place in a separate vessel.
You would then leave the beer to finish in the 2nd FV and in theory have a cleaner beer to rack into a 3rd (bottling) bucket, batch prime and then bottle.
I have never bothered with it though, as I find racking from the primary FV works fine for me and I think what you gain by removing the beer from the trub is lost by increasing the risk of infection from using two FV's and racking more than you really need to.
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
Jim wrote:YOu should be fine. The yeast head will cover the brew once fermentation gets going properly and also the CO2 produced will fill the up.pottolom wrote:Thanks Barry. Sorry for the confusion - with the second question, what I meant was, if I *don't* top up to 23 litres, and just do a smaller brew of say 11.5 litres, will there be an issue with using a fermenting bin with a load of air and not much liquid in it? I might actually decide I'd prefer to do smaller batches, because I don't actually drink beer that fast, and it means I can experiment with different recipes more often!
Newbie here so please bear with me. Having just switched to extract brewing I too would like to brew smaller batches to try to hone recipes for upscaling later and have concerns over the empty space in my 25l FVs. Please correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the general principle that the co2 produced in primary drives any oxygen out of the airlock thus protecting the wort? If that is correct, how safe would it be to open an FV with 12l wort in it after a fortnight of primary (when very little co2 is being produced) in order to dry hop and be left for another few days? Would this not allow the empty half of the FV to fill with oxygen that could be harmful? Trying to figure out if I need smaller FVs for smaller batches? Please tell me if I'm missing the point here!
Re: Extract brewing for a beginner
I think the key is to allow as little oxygen to get to your beer as possible, but lots of us dry hop in this way with no obvious ill effects. It's a question of minimising oxygen contact as well as possible.
As far as boil quantity goes, I'm sure boiling as much as possible is the best thing to do. That said, many extract brewers do partial boils on their cookers, and I think Brewuk extract kits advise to boil at least 6 litres with the hops. Brewuk is run by Greg Hughes, the brewing writer.
As far as boil quantity goes, I'm sure boiling as much as possible is the best thing to do. That said, many extract brewers do partial boils on their cookers, and I think Brewuk extract kits advise to boil at least 6 litres with the hops. Brewuk is run by Greg Hughes, the brewing writer.