Haze

[Vossy1]

Cheers DRB, pm on the way

[DRB]

DRB SAID-but if it's what I think you mean,then just ask them you can buy some.



Vossi I forgot the if out in between them and you.

[DRB]

On it's way.

[Vossy1]

This is why I have been suggesting on more than one occasion to get the PH of the mash right and drop the ph of the sparge water below 6.

Trailblazing here, so to speak, but haven't Wez and I done this in the last couple of brews.

Also, I thought it was the mash ph that was most important not the sparge water

Do not think these are the ramblings of a whipper snapper, just some one who wants to produce the best beer possible

Though if haze has any implications on quality has yet to be decided

[Vossy1]

The idea is to reduce the ph and prevent tannin extraction towards the end of the sparge

I gathered that, but I thought this could be avoided albeit crudely, by not over sparging. Shouldn't stopping the sparge at a higher figure ie, 1012 prevent this over extraction fom being a factor

[Vossy1]

Hmmm interesting

What ph sparge liquor should I be looking for....5.2 ish as the norm

I treat my sparge water with a camden tab as norm but that's it.

[Vossy1]

I'll have a look at this DaaB

I can't remember the ph off hand but I'm sure my water ph was more than ph 6.

Having said that I do treat it with camden tablets, so I'll look into this on my next brew at the weekend

[steve_flack]

3) Cooling, I cool quickly (10 mins)

What with?

A 8m pumped CFC which the outlet returns to the kettle (a version of the Jamil Zainasheff whirlpool method). Maybe I was over exaggerating a little but it isn't much more than ten minutes on a 20L batch. I usually pitch a little high though (25C). If you're aiming for lower it would take longer. The beauty is that the whole of your beer is cooled really quickly and the hop flavour and aroma seems better as the beer isn't standing around driving off those precious aromatic oils. The temperature is well below 50C in less than five minutes. An added plus is much reduced break in the fermenter as it stays in the kettle.

http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php

[Vossy1]

SF, what flow rate do yet get on your cfc

[steve_flack]

B*ggered if I know. It's 10mm copper tubing just like most peoples and I usually restrict the flow from the pump with a ballvalve anyway. 2-3 GPM?

[Vossy1]

That's a lot more than my 2-3ltr / min then

No wonder it took me 1hr 20 min to cool a 46ltr batch to 24 deg c at the weekend

[steve_flack]

Flat out I reckon the return hose from the CFC could fill a pint in a few seconds.

The last time I did a 40L batch it took about 20-25 minutes to cool.

[Vossy1]

I definately need a better pump
I quite fancy the Stuart Turner RG550.

I could use my march may as the cfc pump also but I don't like the idea of trying to sanitise all those sections of the housing

[Aleman]

I have a couple of RG 550, And it is definatelya powerful pump. I use a power controller to roughly control the speed of the motor and then use a ball valve to fine tune the flow.

Big problem I found with mine (Emptying the boiler) was that if the flow is too restricted then the pump cuts out through overheating (Self resetting thermo trip). This necessitated a redesign of the manifold for returning the wort, and also the wort pick up. I'm still not completely there yet but things are improving.

[Vossy1]

Hi TJB, with regards the thermo trip, would this be an issue even when using the pump on the cold side of my cfc

Also, can you give me a little info on your power controller if it's not too much trouble.

I am possibly thinking of using one for my extractor fan and pump...when I get one