Looking for advice on eBIAB build

[Mattzm]

Hey folks, hoping for some advice on parts and similar for an eBIAB build.

So first of all, I have a 70L 45cm/18" diameter stockpot with a 2 piece tap that I BIAB on with an ancient gas ring. At the weekend I did a batch and it took the better part of 2 hours to reach mash temperature and a further hour or so to reach "boil". Admittedly I forgot that as my new place has an instant hot water boiler, I could have used that as a jumpstart on the mash, but that's beside the point. This burner is older than me and I'd like to make a change and I'm considering swapping to electric (after a month or two of fevered fantasies of a Brutus system).

So, in the spirit of spending my hard earned, I'm looking into what I would need while trying to remain within the limitations I find myself in for the foreseeable future.

I have no way of adding a 30amp+ socket to anywhere I live for quite some time. So the tempting 5500 Camco element is out. I'm limited to what I can plug into a standard UK house socket, so that equates to 3kW being my maximum. Is this reasonable for 5-10 gallon batches? 5 is my norm but if I come up with something I really like, making 10 gallons might cross my mind. 15 is right out. I've done some calculations on http://www.phpdoc.info/brew/boilcalc.html and even from a cold start, it reckons 3kw will reach mash temperature in under an hour. Is this consistent with people's experience or am I dreaming? I know AngelHB has a 2.75kW kit that seems pretty reasonable as well. Thoughts on it?

Secondly, because I like flashing lights and doodads, I'd like to build a small control panel for it so I can put in a PID and a plug/switch for my solar pump because automation is neat. The AuberIns SYL-2352 seems to be the standard here so any advice as to SSRs, heatsinks etc that apply to that are greatly appreciated. Or an alternate build altogther, feel free to show off your shiny setup!

Lastly, I'm going to need to get a false bottom to prevent scorching the bag and stuff, as opposed to my current method of clothes pegs, strategic hanging and prayer. I'm currently toying with a SS serving tray that I hope to cut to fit (it's a mm or 2 too wide to get it inside) but I'm open to suggestions. I notice Powell Brewing has a 45cm ready to go. Is this what I'm looking for or would I need something different to account for the elements and taps?

Anyway, any advice is welcome. Thanks!

[Fil]

Check out Jabba's 'Brewery Programming' thread for inspiration its all do able..

the auber pids are the standard but a much cheaper emulation can be found in the sestos offering, its a blatant ripoff of the auber so much so i use the auber manual for reference with mine.

ebay for budget 25a fortek dc switched SSRs and heatsinks..

£shop camping mats and space blankets for diy composite insulation will help retain heat when heating with electricity And also add to heat retention during the mash..

fyi iirc heating 50l to strike in my uninsulated hlt takes closer to 2 hours+..

for a bag protector quiz family n friends for anyone with a quartz grill microwave anyone with one will have a ss circular grill stand in a back cupboard gathering dust

enjoy the build /upgrade

[AnthonyUK]

Hi Mattzm,
This is the sort of project that can be as easy or complex as you want.
A lot of people use off the shelf 'urns' which are around 40l and these have an approx. 2500w element.
For 70l two smaller elements may be an option which would require two standard 13A supplies from separate rings and could still be controlled by a single PID.
I have seen people on an Aussie forum using an Arduino to make a Braumeister clone. The ingenuity is astounding sometimes.

A popular option for a false bottom is a pizza tray from Wilco's for around £5. If you need it higher to avoid a hop filter or element theb some stainless bolts can be used as legs.
I use a Sestos PID and Fotek SSR from ebay and it works well with a decent PT100 sensor. They are often supplied with a cheap and nasty K type which rusts after the first use and is not reliable.

[vacant]

I'm limited to what I can plug into a standard UK house socket, so that equates to 3kW being my maximum.

I brew in the car port and run one asda kettle element from the outside power socket and the other from an extension lead plugged into the cooker socket. Separately fused circuits, about 4.6kW total. I don't think I'm the only one doing this sort of thing. Check your fuse box/consumer unit, pull/flip fuses/breakers to check which plugs are on which circuit as you never know if the labels are right.

[Mattzm]

Thanks for the replies, big thanks Fil for the info about the SESTOS PID, mostly because it's available here, on Amazon Prime rather than paying the cost of the device itself to have it shipped from the US.Reviews are interestingly mixed on it, either glowing or raging but for less than £20, I'll take a chance on it.

AnthonyUK, very interesting, I have an Arduino lying on my desk from a work project that never happened. Never thought I could re-purpose it. From what you're saying about the 2500W element, it sounds like I could reliably produce 5 gallon batches with one or a slightly beefier one like the AngelHB kit. While 10gallon would be nice, I lack the space to actually store that much beer (at least, not without my ladyfriend getting miffed). This also solves the needing two ring mains thing if I can run it off a single socket. Another vote for the Sestos as well. Cheers for the advice about the sensor.

vacant, how much cable are we talking here? While I obviously need to check, if I use one of the sockets in the conservatory and one in the bedroom, I most likely have access to two separate circuits but I'm a little wary of running lots of current through the length of leads I would need (several metres or so). Am I just paranoid here? Also got a link to a guide for putting Asda kettle elements into a stockpot? Just for hole sizes and sealing it. While I'm not skint, if I can turn two £8 kettles into a rolling boil powerhouse, it seems silly not to explore the possibility.

[vacant]

vacant, how much cable are we talking here? While I obviously need to check, if I use one of the sockets in the conservatory and one in the bedroom, I most likely have access to two separate circuits but I'm a little wary of running lots of current through the length of leads I would need (several metres or so). Am I just paranoid here? Also got a link to a guide for putting Asda kettle elements into a stockpot? Just for hole sizes and sealing it. While I'm not skint, if I can turn two £8 kettles into a rolling boil powerhouse, it seems silly not to explore the possibility.

I run one element from a wilko's 10M extension reel cable with a built-in circuit breaker from the cooker, out of the fanlight and around the back of the house to the car port. It's rated 10amp, 2.4kW unwound (or 720W wound as heat builds up). My boiler is plastic so I traced a circle, drilled holes, and filed it smooth to fit the silicone washer from the kettle. As for guides, the supermarkets can change their budget kettles. If you can get a couple with long prongs, they are easier to plug in. Pulling out the boil cut-out - just post pix if you can't find a guide for the type of element you get.

[Mattzm]

Took the plunge and ordered some elements (Backer 2.75kW ones) as well as a SESTOS PID, 25A SSR and PT100 probe. I'll grab a junction box from B&Q and under the watchful eye of my father, attempt to build this life-threatening device.

Any idea what size hole the Backer elements take? The picture implies its the same one Angel offers and thus a 40mm hole is ideal but I'll take actual experience over peering at low res JPGs any day.

[angelHomeBrew]

Hi ... I use a 40mm Q-Max cutter to fit the 2.75KW Backer Elements

[subfaction]

Sorry to hijack, but how do you run two elements using separate supplies through a single pid?

[Mattzm]

Short answer, you don't. Im going to have one PID controlled for mash temp and one I can just plug in to boost me up to boiling super fast.

[Fil]

the pid controller can switch a number of ssrs on the same circuit,
So you can as long as u use a 2nd ssr to independently switch a separate 13a feed. i use feeds from 2 separate ring mains for mine..

Still a work in progress, but note 2 x power in cables and 2 x power out leads too.. i have both the 2 ssrs and the 12v cooling fans strapped to the heatsinks running off the ssr switching voltage

bleeding power for the pid its backup and the arduino controller all bled off the primary ac power in.

[subfaction]

Ahh I see, thanks gents, i think I'll start with the plug in to get a boost method first, but I'll order another ssr and sink in the meantime. I guess a switch to turn them off is a good idea too...

[Mattzm]

That's a nifty one Fil, I'd love to see a detailed build of that.

I might do a month of just using my thermometers and spend next months pocket money on a second SSR and other bits. Would have bought them now but a handy fridge came up on Gumtree which I'm hoping will be come part of a tasteful Seekrit fermentation Chamber that I can hide in the living room.

[Fil]

That's a nifty one Fil, I'd love to see a detailed build of that.

not a lot to it, 2 x pid units (back ups for the arduino controller) i lifted the core system including the 4 line screen u/i and pid lib operation for the as yet incomplete arduino controller from Jabba, in his 'brewery programming' thread. - i keep wanting to add things.. currently its an interface to a pc reading the large scales the tun will sit on. which may provide accurate volume measuerments in which case i will possibly be adding solenoid valves to switch flows on/off.

im currently hung up on the mechancal switching of ssr control between the 3 devices. - been saying that a while and ignoring the work...
The plan is to finalise tyhe brewshed design, and Then fit the controller in situe..
when i shall document.