Buffalo Boiler Thermal Switch & Element

[Cpt.Frederickson]

The thermal switch was operating correctly in isolation to the boiler but, looking at the live-side wiring (the left-hand terminal in the pic below) something was obviously going awry...


Hot cables

Melted insulation and blackened spade terminal. Not good. Not good at all...


Chargrilled spade terminal

I'm on my second Buffalo (went from a 30 litre to a 40 litre) and after my minor trials and tribulations with the thermal fuse on my old one, I was on my third brew with the new one.

Note, I said was

I just had to tip the brew as I'm having the exact same problem as FutureBrewer originally described in this thread. Damn I wish I had a supply of spade terminals sitting around, got everything else I need! Brew wasted

[AdyG]

I've done 2 brews after doing the modifications described by 50quidsoundboy in earlier posts on this topic and haven't had any problems with cutting out, and I haven't worried about the wort burning on the element and causing a cut out, it's all worked fine.

I'm building a digital temperature control so I can accurately set the mash temperature, but still need to wire it up

[Cpt.Frederickson]

I've ordered a replacement thermo switch and gonna get some spade connectors and hopefully it'll work. Seriously considering an upgrade now though. Think I'll get one of Mr.Lards ones...shiny...

[AdyG]

I've ordered a replacement thermo switch and gonna get some spade connectors and hopefully it'll work. Seriously considering an upgrade now though. Think I'll get one of Mr.Lards ones...shiny...

I just ditched the fuse & thermo switch!

I'm considering an upgrade too and it will be a 3 vessel bigger set up. I do like Mr. Lards stuff, also Powell Brewing on ebay do a 100l 3 vessel for about £600-700 which get a good reputation too.

[mihaisofti]

there's a clip on the edge of the element that holds a red lead with some kind of thermal insulation sleeve. Release the clip and slide the sleeve along the wire. This reveals black shrink-wrap insulation with an odd shape, underneath which is a thermal fuse that blows when the temp gets beyond a certain level. It doesn't reset. Once it blows, it's dead. Mine blew, and in the interests of getting things working again, I simply cut it out and bypassed it.
There's also a thermal cutout, that does reset. It's attached to the bottom of the element plate with bolts and a smear of thermal paste.
I see that it's rated at 10A and 120C. I find this a little odd, as the boiler is rated at 2600W and 230V which would suggest a current of 11.3A. Even if it delivers 2.6kw at 240V, the current would still exceed 10A. Presumably, the rating for the thermal cutout has a safety margin.
I noticed that mine was burnt and blackened on one terminal. Further investigation revealed the spade connector to be loose on the rivet that attaches it to the cutout. I've tried giving it a wallop with a centre punch to seat it properly, but it remains loose. I have chosen to bypass this too, as others have done.

My feeling is that this is very nearly a very good boiler - just not quite.

[poolking]

Hi all, after reading loads of threads / posts on this topic I thought I would get some back up for my 40ltr Buffalo. Only done 2 biab brews up to now ... 1st went ok but boil wasn`t a strong rolling boil , no cut outs though, 2nd brew and cut out at about an hour in, left 10 mins and back on finished brew and ok. I haven`t done any bypasses etc.. just decided to fit another element and intend using this for the boil, this will give the Buffalo element a break, the boiler is ideal for me and hopefully will last me a long time set up like this...


The element is 2750 watts so should be fine, made the seals out of silicon bake tray.
Soon find out how it works on my next brew. Dave.

[50quidsoundboy]

^^ this is a much better solution, i wish i'd thought of that!

[jmc]

Try insulating your boiler too. It makes a great difference. I use cylinder insulation bags strapped to outside of my 70L boiler. This has 1 x 3kw element and its a good rolling boil with 45-50l wort for my 40L brewlength. OK to unstrap when cooling. I will upgrade soon to a camping mat version with Velcrostrips. Hopefully easier to fit on.

[greenxpaddy]

Totally agree with the last two replies. The buffalo was never designed to heat up sugary solution. I fitted a standard haden element and it nevers cuts out plus it is much easier to clean. But as jmc says you would be wise going from 3kw to 2.4 kw to insulatee the boiler surfaces to maintain a good boil

[jack_c]

50 mins into my last boil my Buffalo started to cut out as described here. Element was spotless when I started but 90% crud encrusted by the end - og 1.063. This is with the thermal cutout replaced with a 140c unit, so assuming I need to move/insulate the thermostat...

Anyhow, mine takes around 45mins to hit mash temp and abou the same to bring this to the boil. If I installed an additional element as per poolking, and used both elements - what will my new heating times be?

[AnthonyUK]

....so assuming I need to move/insulate the thermostat...

No, it doesn't help. Attach a bit of scourer to the end of a brewing spoon or mash paddle to keep the element clean.