I've got a sparkling ale on the go, but won't be able to bottle it til 3 weeks after fermentation started. My plan is to bottle it then. I'm assuming that the beer will be too bright to carbonate in the bottle , with the required sugar, so I'd planned to add a tsp of the yeast from the bottom to the bottling bucket along with the dissolved sugar and bottle from there. will this be ok? Can anyone see abetter way to do it, or any problems with my method?
Unfotunately earlier bottling is not an option as I'll be away from home.
Coopers Sparkling Ale, timing.
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ade1865
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Stonch
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guest5234
you never prime> how do you get secondary carbonantion?DaaB wrote:I would add fresh IF the beer is looking very clear but you could use slurry. However, I never add yeast to the bottling bucket and I rarely prime the beer these days. I still get about the same level of carbonation as I would expect from a pint of ale from the cask and that suits me.
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drsmurto
Why are you adding more yeast? No matter how clear your beer looks, there is always enough yeast left in suspension to carbonate up when bottling. I racked my last 2 brews and left them for 3 weeks before bottling, they were brilliantly clear, bulk primed as usual as they are carbonated.
Unless you are filtering thru 1 micron you will never remove all the yeast!
No need to panic, just be patient and the yeasties always come thru.
Cheers
DrSmurto
Unless you are filtering thru 1 micron you will never remove all the yeast!
No need to panic, just be patient and the yeasties always come thru.
Cheers
DrSmurto
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torchwood brewery
umm i have only ever added more yeast for priming a verrrrrry clear lager that has been lagering for several months .
i do know that if you were to lager the coopers sparkling ale though for several weeks in the fridge (call it cold conditioning it is a good idea to add a new coopers yeast pack for bottle carbonating)
it actually brings the flavours in to more of a cloner .
richard
i do know that if you were to lager the coopers sparkling ale though for several weeks in the fridge (call it cold conditioning it is a good idea to add a new coopers yeast pack for bottle carbonating)
it actually brings the flavours in to more of a cloner .
richard
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drsmurto
Sorry lads, didnt mean to sound that harsh - i have racked my beer and left at 10degC for 3-4 weeks - crystal clear beer, using S-04 and still nicely carbed up. I bulk prime to get that even carbonation across the whole brew.
Have thought recently about adding a lager yeast to my dark beers i recently brewed which are sitting in the bottle in the shed at 5degC. They are taking nearly 6 weeks to carb up but they do get there. A lager yeast would speed up the process.
Have thought recently about adding a lager yeast to my dark beers i recently brewed which are sitting in the bottle in the shed at 5degC. They are taking nearly 6 weeks to carb up but they do get there. A lager yeast would speed up the process.
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torchwood brewery
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drsmurto
G'day Richard
Am working hard as usual! Have a couple of ales fermenting at home so spending too much time at work looking for info etc. How is it over your way?
Which yeast do you use for this?
I know that Coopers centrifuge their beers after primary ferment and then add a fresh sample of yeast to do the secondary ferment.
Never tried it but its getting chilly here in the Adelaide Hills so its something i need to think about. Dont even put my beer sin the fridge to drink, jusy walk out to the shed and grab one, if its a dark beer than i leave it inside for an hour to warm up first!
Cheers
DrSmurto
Am working hard as usual! Have a couple of ales fermenting at home so spending too much time at work looking for info etc. How is it over your way?
Which yeast do you use for this?
I know that Coopers centrifuge their beers after primary ferment and then add a fresh sample of yeast to do the secondary ferment.
Never tried it but its getting chilly here in the Adelaide Hills so its something i need to think about. Dont even put my beer sin the fridge to drink, jusy walk out to the shed and grab one, if its a dark beer than i leave it inside for an hour to warm up first!
Cheers
DrSmurto
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torchwood brewery
yes been cold here too
which yeast do i use as a secondary for bottle carbing and conditioning .
well i use a bottle culture from sparkling ale in primary and then a fresh safale for the bottling process .
i have used the coopers 7g sat a few times but the safale is better as it forms a good crust in the bottle a bit like you get in the real deal.
you do the same as me in winter i drink my stouts and dark ales straight out the crate. my english ales i take in side though and bring them up a bit first .
richard
which yeast do i use as a secondary for bottle carbing and conditioning .
well i use a bottle culture from sparkling ale in primary and then a fresh safale for the bottling process .
i have used the coopers 7g sat a few times but the safale is better as it forms a good crust in the bottle a bit like you get in the real deal.
you do the same as me in winter i drink my stouts and dark ales straight out the crate. my english ales i take in side though and bring them up a bit first .
richard
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jaytee1
Hey guys down under
you fellas seem to have some good ideas and experience with Coopers sparkling ale..
From what I can gather the best way to get close to the original coopers sparkling is thus.
Primary ferment with coopers yeast.
After primary rack into secondary and leave until clear.
Hydrate a pack of S-04 mix in and then bottle, bearing in mind that I plan to bottle to full 23l batch.
Do I need to prime the bottles aswell to create a truly sparking ale? If so 100grms brewers sugar mixed in before bottling aswell??
Cheers guys
JT
you fellas seem to have some good ideas and experience with Coopers sparkling ale..
From what I can gather the best way to get close to the original coopers sparkling is thus.
Primary ferment with coopers yeast.
After primary rack into secondary and leave until clear.
Hydrate a pack of S-04 mix in and then bottle, bearing in mind that I plan to bottle to full 23l batch.
Do I need to prime the bottles aswell to create a truly sparking ale? If so 100grms brewers sugar mixed in before bottling aswell??
Cheers guys
JT
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torchwood brewery
jaytee
if you can build up a nice starter yeast from a bottel yeast do that but make it to a litre .add this to your primary and let it ferment at 20 deg C for 2 weeks.
rack to a secondary and chill down to clear about 4 days, then i would rack to bulk priming bucket.( 23 litres with 180g of white sugar) add safale s04 gentley stir with out spalshing leave for abit under airlock then bottel.
dont add any more sugar to the bottels or you will (be arrested at the moment in the UK for terrorist acts and bomb making)
sorry edited the post it was supposed to be 180 g of sugar to 23 litres.
no you don't want bottel bombs do you!
you can add more Pride Of Ring wood hops if you like.
also let this sit for about 3 months
its not bad and you can adjust if you wish .
richard
if you can build up a nice starter yeast from a bottel yeast do that but make it to a litre .add this to your primary and let it ferment at 20 deg C for 2 weeks.
rack to a secondary and chill down to clear about 4 days, then i would rack to bulk priming bucket.( 23 litres with 180g of white sugar) add safale s04 gentley stir with out spalshing leave for abit under airlock then bottel.
dont add any more sugar to the bottels or you will (be arrested at the moment in the UK for terrorist acts and bomb making)
sorry edited the post it was supposed to be 180 g of sugar to 23 litres.
no you don't want bottel bombs do you!
you can add more Pride Of Ring wood hops if you like.
also let this sit for about 3 months
its not bad and you can adjust if you wish .
richard
Last edited by torchwood brewery on Wed Jul 04, 2007 8:34 am, edited 1 time in total.