Brewbuilder RIMS issue

[mosquat]

[mosquat]

Thats absoluetely as much as i can hand tighten it. Its the same with or without PTFE tape. Will contact Mr Lard

[Coffeeuk]

Not good.

One tip, if you join together the fitting with a clamp, it allows you to get a good hold, allowing you to screw it in tighter.

Have you looked at the threads and checked for damage ?

[mosquat]

Yea I went down that route too but it felt like something was going to break under the pressure...I cant see any damage but the adjustable nut screes on easily so the issue is more likely with the element fitting. How hard did you have to turn yours? Are we talking proper swearingly hard to get on? If so I can have another try but it really feels like something else will break. It just doesnt feel right

[mosquat]

Pretty sure something isnt right, returned for one last go using the pipe n clamp for leverage and it just pops off the thread now when I turn it past a quarter turn or so..

[Coffeeuk]

Mine hardly took any screwing in. Sounds like there's a problem somewhere with yours.

[orlando]

thanks for the info - I will get on this again when I get home and hopefully will be able to start tuning my PID

I too have a Lard RIMS set up and there does appear to be something wrong with yours as mine nips up without PTFE and doesn't leak.

When yo do come to tuning the PID I strongly recommend you do a "proper" mash using just pale malt, it is tempting to use just water but this is not what you are going to be asking the PID to do. A few kilos of malt is nothing, getting the tuning right is.

[Coffeeuk]

I followed this guys guide when setting up my sestos and had no problems.

http://grizzlybearloveskolsch.com/setup ... s-brewing/

[mosquat]

Cheers great info as always and I found that grizzley post too. Did either of you have same issues with the 3kw element that he mentions and solves with the help of this forum??

[Rhodesy]

Cheers great info as always and I found that grizzley post too. Did either of you have same issues with the 3kw element that he mentions and solves with the help of this forum??

I found the same issue with step mashes in that when I wanted to ramp up the temp the element would be doing this too quickly. I think I settled on about 30% power which when tuned in achieves around 1c rise per minute which I am happy with

I found his blog very useful

[mosquat]

Yea I thanked the author in the comments as it he wrote a couple of great posts that mustve took some effort

[mosquat]

*taken

[Aleman]

I think the issues that Grizzly had were not only down to the element being overpowered, but down to the fact that with a mash the flow rate is different to when he auto tuned using just water (As Orlando has already alluded to). Auto tuning works for one set of variables . . . Heater wattage (constant) and flow rate, if you change the flow rate then the PID Values set in autotune are wrong . . .both flow rate and heat input must remain constant at the value you autotuned for it to work properly.

I used the spent mash to auto tune my set up. Simply did a single temp mash, drained and sparged, then once the boil was under way, added back water into the mash tun, and let the PID auto tune at 35C (Why 35C? You'll see). I then ramped up the temp by 10C steps, once auto tune was complete with no issues.

Of course I still think 3KW in a well insulated system is too much for RIMS, I'd be happier with 1 or 1.5KW

[Rhodesy]

I think the issues that Grizzly had were not only down to the element being overpowered, but down to the fact that with a mash the flow rate is different to when he auto tuned using just water (As Orlando has already alluded to). Auto tuning works for one set of variables . . . Heater wattage (constant) and flow rate, if you change the flow rate then the PID Values set in autotune are wrong . . .both flow rate and heat input must remain constant at the value you autotuned for it to work properly.

I used the spent mash to auto tune my set up. Simply did a single temp mash, drained and sparged, then once the boil was under way, added back water into the mash tun, and let the PID auto tune at 35C (Why 35C? You'll see). I then ramped up the temp by 10C steps, once auto tune was complete with no issues.

Of course I still think 3KW in a well insulated system is too much for RIMS, I'd be happier with 1 or 1.5KW

I try to keep the flow rate the same on pump outlet ball valve, it may not be with exact precision but think I have it nailed.

Agree on the power aspect, mines is as good as a 1kw(ish) element now I have restricted the power

[orlando]

Of course I still think 3KW in a well insulated system is too much for RIMS, I'd be happier with 1 or 1.5KW

Are you saying the "fix" in the PID software is still not good enough and therefore changing or controlling the element directly is a better answer?