Anyone used "bouncer in-line beer filter"?

[IPA]

I use one to go from FV to keg and its awesome but im not sure how the little one would cope with a lot of hop material tbh. I've normally crashed cooled and i'm just trying to stop the small bits that block the poppets

I would respectfully suggest that if you have "small bits that block the poppets" in your finished beer you review your whole brewing process. Because this should not be happening.

I would respectfully suggest you re-read my original post slowly

I've re-read it and you are filtering the finished beer at the kegging stage to prevent the poppets getting blocked by debris. The beer should already be bright at this stage.

[orlando]

Now I just dump whats collected in my conical after 24 hours

Are you saying you pitch after dumping trub then?

No, I pitch when I get it in FV. Attached is what I dumped last one I did at 24 hours

I thought so. My worry is you are also dumping yeast into the bargain and the colour of that suggests you are too.

[Bigbud78]

I would respectfully suggest that if you have "small bits that block the poppets" in your finished beer you review your whole brewing process. Because this should not be happening.

I would respectfully suggest you re-read my original post slowly

I've re-read it and you are filtering the finished beer at the kegging stage to prevent the poppets getting blocked by debris. The beer should already be bright at this stage.

Why would the beer have to be bright ? i've dry hopped with 300g of loose pellet hops, crash chilled it for 3/4 days then pushed it out with co2. There's always a little bit of hop matter most likely its stuck in the racking arm or the side of the fv which then comes loose. It takes very little to block the disconnect.

Please enlighten me to why I would need to "review my whole brewing process"

[Bigbud78]

Are you saying you pitch after dumping trub then?

No, I pitch when I get it in FV. Attached is what I dumped last one I did at 24 hours

I thought so. My worry is you are also dumping yeast into the bargain and the colour of that suggests you are too.

From what I've read (can't find the source right now) that any yeast that has flocculated into the trub so early is not worth keeping in the beer anyway. All the healthy yeast should be in suspension unless its a bottom fermenting yeast.

[Bigbud78]

Plenty of yeast after a trub dump

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t9gicl23bsxsi ... 4.mov?dl=0

[orlando]

Don't be fooled by the phrase "top fermenting yeast" take a look at this. Note how much yeast sits on the bottom of the carboy at the beginning.

[Bigbud78]

Don't be fooled by the phrase "top fermenting yeast" take a look at this. Note how much yeast sits on the bottom of the carboy at the beginning.

Interesting, might pitch in the morning on my next then after dumping the trub and see if its similar to what I normally get. Cheers for that link, will have a look at the others too.

[Sadfield]

Handy bit of kit for those that dry hop in the keg. I do wonder why, given the designed purpose of these, that they haven't got John Guest push connectors in order to take standard beer line. Perhaps they are a re-purposed fuel/water filter etc, and there is an alternative out there without the Homebrew mark up.

[Bigbud78]

Handy bit of kit for those that dry hop in the keg. I do wonder why, given the designed purpose of these, that they haven't got John Guest push connectors in order to take standard beer line. Perhaps they are a re-purposed fuel/water filter etc, and there is an alternative out there without the Homebrew mark up.

definitely, you can pick them up on us amazon and there cheaper. I looked but there not available over here

[f00b4r]

Handy bit of kit for those that dry hop in the keg. I do wonder why, given the designed purpose of these, that they haven't got John Guest push connectors in order to take standard beer line. Perhaps they are a re-purposed fuel/water filter etc, and there is an alternative out there without the Homebrew mark up.

definitely, you can pick them up on us amazon and there cheaper. I looked but there not available over here

Do you have a link? Have a friend coming across the pond soon.

[wolfenrook]

Sounds like no-one has used this sort of filter for filtering between boiler and fermenter. I guess I need to find a way to reduce the trub in my boil and then either use a better filter in the boiler or be selective as to what I run into the fermenter. Not that it is translating into super cloudy beer, so maybe not a huge issue...?

At the risk of yet again sounding like a stuck record....

I BIAB too, and the solution I found was a 2 part one:-

1) I replaced the bazooka filter in my ACE boiler with a longer one (old one in the pic for size comparison, I had to bend the end of the new one as it's actually a bit too long).

2) I switched to using whole hops rather than pellets (with an additional plan, where if I need to use pellets I will contain them in a 300 micron hop bag I bought, and make sure to use whole hops still for the bittering addition).

The hops form a filter bed over the bazooka, keeping most of the trub in the kettle. I get a tiny bit of trub in the FV, but we're talking here about what looks like a layer identical to what I used to get brewing with kits! This is including the yeast cake too.

As a bonus, my bazooka filter doesn't end up blocked up, meaning I can transfer the entire brew through the ball valve tap on my kettle, including tipping it to get the last bit out.

The con is then having to clean this out of the bottom of my ACE boiler... lol

It's so simple a solution, and considerably cheaper than trying different filters etc. There are plenty of articles that suggest that the tiny bit of trub that gets through is actually good for the beer even, acting as a nutrient or something for the yeast.

The other thing that I am planning on is to buy a recirculation pump to use when mashing, recirculating the wort during the mash through the grain bed to attempt to vorlauf it. It won't do much about trub from protein break, but should give me clear(er) wort going into the boil by reducing the flour you get with BIAB mashing. You can vorlauf by hand for sure, but from experience I know that I always come under pressure to speed up my brew day if I start adding extra steps... Best article I have found about it http://brulosophy.com/2016/02/22/the-vo ... t-results/, you can see in his pics how much clearer his wort was. My wife bought me a 5 litre jug for my birthday yesterday though, so I may try it again, especially now we've found that if I place an SS colander on top of my ACE when sparging I get a better sparge, I can use the same trick for the vorlauf.... You might want to give it a try too.

[IPA]

.

Please enlighten me to why I would need to "review my whole brewing process"
[/quote]

Sounds to me that you are only using one vessel for the whole process. If so that's where you could make a start. Please remember that I am trying to help. If you are using hop pellets to dry hop why not change to whole hops? Plus you could use BacBrewing Springer at the first and second transfer stages. Please note that "cold crash" (how I hate that phrase) Is effectively the last of three stages in protein removal. Hot Break, Cold Break then Cold Storage. Are you performing the second one?

[orlando]

.

Please enlighten me to why I would need to "review my whole brewing process"

Please note that "cold crash" (how I hate that phrase) Is effectively the last of three stages in protein removal. Hot Break, Cold Break then Cold Storage. Are you performing the second one?
[/quote]

Don't forget that the mash is also the starting point of reducing protein levels. Having the right level of calcium in the mash will improve hot break formation.

[Sadfield]

definitely, you can pick them up on us amazon and there cheaper. I looked but there not available over here

Do you have a link? Have a friend coming across the pond soon.

Choice of mesh sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/Line-Strainer-st ... cer+filter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XYQNB ... 4DF4NS5GCQ



I now know what I'll be getting for my birthday, from my sister in NY State.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[Kev888]

Sounds like no-one has used this sort of filter for filtering between boiler and fermenter. I guess I need to find a way to reduce the trub in my boil and then either use a better filter in the boiler or be selective as to what I run into the fermenter. Not that it is translating into super cloudy beer, so maybe not a huge issue...?

If you use a reasonable amount of whole/flower hops then giving them time to settle over the kettle's filter (after any stirring of the kettle) can make a very effective filter bed. Finer stuff tends to settle more slowly and so most of it settles on top of the hops. If you are able to recirculate with a pump or jug to clear the initial debris (well sanitised, if this is post-cooling), the remainder of the run-off should be pretty decent, especially if you can restrain yourself from chasing the dregs at the end. If it works really well then just discarding the first pint of run-off may be sufficient.

It also depends on where the problem arises. A bit of cold break in the fermenter isn't worth getting too concerned about IMO, and you won't avoid this completely with common home-brew practices anyway, but significant hot break and/or general kettle debris are less desirable. Also BIAB is more prone to getting grain debris in the kettle, but if you get very/unusually large amounts then you may be better addressing that at the time, rather than after the boil.

I wouldn't expect very much trub and debris to make it through to the final beer, to make it cloudy directly. Though the proteins etc that they contribute could give rise to haze in some circumstances, and there will likely be an effect on stability and a subtle one on yeast activity. However usually in homebrewing the effects are not huge, some don't even notice any, so it isn't worth getting paranoid about small amounts.