Control panel build

[Eclipse9101]

Just thought I'd share a few pictures of my recent control panel build I was inspired by NewToHomeBrewTom on YouTube. Managed to source the same sized enclosure bit made a few small changes to the external and internal design. I used large 40amp relays to switch each element on/off via the selector switches on the front panel. These are wires between mains input and the SSRs. (I don't personally trust or like the idea of relying on the 12v SSR switching side to toggle element feeds on/off. I prefer a physical break)
Also I incorporated a 63amp DPDT contactor for the power input to the box, this is controlled by the turn key switch on the front of the panel. From here live goes into a further isolator switch and across 5 MCBs (1 for each element) and a separate MCB for power to the 24v transformer which powers the whole front panel/PIDs.
For those who are wondering... I have a dedicated HERMS pot with its own 2.5kw element fitted. So the middle PID controls this. The PT100 probe is on the outlet side of the Herms coil.

[Eclipse9101]

More pics

[LeeH]

Good effort.


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[HairyJamie]

Cracking build.

Didn't fancy it in yellow though?

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[Eclipse9101]

Haha the yellow was slightly too luminous for my taste

[Fungus]

Hi Eclipse

I'm just building a panel myself and had been wondering about the power connectors for the elements. It looks like you've used Neutrik ones? If so can you let me know which ones you went for?

Thanks

[Eclipse9101]

Yes mate. I used the ones with product code nac3fpx.

They are rated for 16amps each so well within spec for my elements as they only pull just over 10 amps each. Hope this helps. Good luck with the build

[Kev888]

All looking very smart! I always like to see high quality control boxes like these; unless you particularly want/need app integration then they're the bees knees IMO.

[Eclipse9101]

Yes I love the balance of automation and hands on to a brewday. It never gets old watching those element indicator LEDs being pulsed on and off via the pid/ssr

[mozza]

That’s amazing. My inkbird PID arrived in the week. I was just going to keep it simple but this has inspired me to look at what I can add to the build!

[hopit]

Hi,

I had a few questions about your panel as starting to design one for a distant future build.

Which 40amp relays did you use?

Where is the isolator switch? Is that directly after the key on / off in the circuit?

Why did you use a 63amp DPDT for the power in? What voltage / amps is your input power?

What power adapter did you use for 12v circuits?

Looks amazing mate

[PeeBee]

… Which 40amp relays did you use?

Where is the isolator switch? Is that directly after the key on / off in the circuit?

Why did you use a 63amp DPDT for the power in? What voltage / amps is your input power? …

"40A" relays will be available off eBay from China. You believe they are 40A at your peril (and anyone else in the house)! Get 40A Contactors and do the job right.

The switch isolates. If you mean a "push for off" type isolator it can go immediately downstream (or perhaps upstream?) of the key switch. You've gone all safety conscious, and within just one written line of your "40A relay".

It is good practice for high power (>13A) AC circuits to switch both Live and Neutral lines). Looking at the above piccie (of a very tidy box) it will be supplied by single phase 230V AC (domestic UK supply).

[hopit]

Dont worry, I really don't trust any of the 40amp relays I've seen on ebay. I'm defo going contactors from a proper shop! Just was interested in what elipise used was all

In terms of the isolator switch, I assumed he meant a switch on the panel somewhere and was a bit confused. I think he might be referencing an internal isolator but just wanted to check what this was and why its needed when you have the power key switch which turns everything off already.

Re bigger amps than mains; so basically go for a bigger capacity than you are expecting as a matter of doing things right. I am not one for shortcuts or the bare minimum myself either but 63amps on a 240v input sounded huge so thought I'd ask.

Also what the hell is that big box / grill thing in the bottom left of the first piccie? A power adapter?

[PeeBee]

Excellent! Some one else not taken in by what they read on eBay! Hope it extends to what you read on forums too, especially from me! (Another "unknown", but if you read some of my other posts you learn that my advice comes via a rather compromised central processing unit - or brain if you want to put it like that).

Best wait for "Eclipse9101" for an explanation of his box, but rereading his OP it might be that the "isolator" is the key switch but it is only switching a low powered circuit that switches a 63A contactor that enables the circuits for high power use (one way of doing it I suppose?). The contactor is only rated for 63A, the OP doesn't lay down how much power the setup uses and that will depend on the equipment that can come on at the same time (e.g. I have 6kW elements of which 1 element can come on along with a 2.4kW element and auxiliary kit; for which I have a dedicated circuit with 45A breaker and cabling that will carry that load). You might get away with an existing 32A circuit or need a dedicated circuit - you really need a sparky to calculate it if not up to it yourself, and some work falls under regulations which you don't want to fall foul of.

The "big box / grill thing" looks very much like the 24V power supply. A Chinese model. Watch those flippin' things, they do get warm and I think it's the heat that makes the fuse blow well below its rating (?). But fuses on those boxes can't (easily) be replaced. I've so far got through three of them things and had to replace them all (the fuses are soldered in).

[Eclipse9101]

Sorry for the delay in replying guys.

The key switch directly switches the 63 amp DPDT contactor. That is the main power in to the entire box. When the key switch is off the only power to the panel is a small 240v feed to the key switch to control that main contactor. I went with a large 63amp rated contactor just to be well above the max current the box will ever be pulling. The max current it is capable of pulling with all 5 elements on at the same time is roughly 50amps. Although I never see myself being in a situation where I would need all 5 elements on at the same time.

The so called 40 amp eBay China relays switch a max of 11amps each (1 relay per 2.4kw element) there is no way I would want to switch a full 40 amp load on these, but I am happy with them switching a 10-11 amp load.

The 24v power adapter is also off ebay. I think I went for the 5a version.

If I was to do it again I would opt for some UK contactors rather than the eBay relays. However the 40amp relays seem to handle switching single elements perfectly fine for now.