Single Hop brews

retourrbx · Post by **retourrbx** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 11:58 pm

Looking at a couple of brews coming up next weekend hopefully...

There has been a bit of talk recently about single hop brews - could someone point me in the right direction of an all Styrian and all Challenger brew please? I know there are a few about but first hand experience I find is always a bonus...

I'm really into the hoppy taste so am looking to add a fair amount of hops in the last minute and when cooling. I also want to dry hop I think...

prodigal2 · Post by **prodigal2** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 9:55 am

Discussion on all challenger beer recipesHere
The Bluebird all challenger beer I made(which is brilliant) http://jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6911

The Styrian Stunner, is hard to beat, the only thing on this forum as a recipe it has a life of its own, I do recommend you searching through the archive.
The current recieved wisdom is copper hops to about 25-30 IBU's and then a hefty load in late additions. I would also recommend adding a teaspoon of table salt to your boil as this apparently improves the hop flavour.
my 2 stunner attempts:
http://jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7396
http://jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6687

retourrbx · Post by **retourrbx** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:00 am

Cheers P2 - you're a gent

Post by **Aleman** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:48 am

I think single malt, single hop brews are a phase that we go through as brewers, and in some cases we find a combination that we really like (Styrian Stunner comes to mind here

), my personal favourite is Golden Goldings (Found the post on UK Homebrew Wow 2002, was it that long ago? Generally I find then to be a bit 'one sided' (I hesitate to say bland, often they are not) However they are a great way to find out how different hops affect a beer. One reason for having a double boiler is that i can brew two different beers from the same grist, 40L with one hop schedule, and 40L with another. This can then be split again to produce 4 lots of wort that I can then pitch with two different yeasts, giving me a variety of beer from one brewing session.

I must admit that apart from specific styles, I have moved away from simple grists/hopping to more complex recipes (again) as I find the beers have a much more complex flavour profile which I enjoy, although the simple clean tastes of a good beer like Bluebird or summer lightening are very welcome.

prodigal2 · Post by **prodigal2** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:44 am

TJB, I think the single hop brews are very important to a beginner brewer, like myself. For the very reason not only is the brewer learning technique, but they are also educating their palate to what a hop tastes like(a few months ago I could not identify anything more than is the beer good or not

). The thing is as a learning curve there is no real pain involved, apart from a certain amount of discipline to not get sidetracked by the myriad of recipes availible. I also think it is about what you want to get out of brewing, do you want to be following clone recipes or do you wish to formulate your own beers.

I must admit that apart from specific styles, I have moved away from simple grists/hopping to more complex recipes (again) as I find the beers have a much more complex flavour profile which I enjoy, although the simple clean tastes of a good beer like Bluebird or summer lightening are very welcome.

And that is the joy of brewing, having what YOU enjoy on tap. And yet like food, a complex beer is a real joy, but sometimes nothing will beat a good steak and chips/ Bluebird.

And because of what I have learnt by doing and then filling in the gaps in my knowledge by reading, I look at that recipe of Golden Goldings and I make the Homer sound of "argggghhhhh mmmmm". As I know from looking at the recipe what the basics of flavour will be

retourrbx · Post by **retourrbx** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:51 am

Both ending in ~ 18L

Styrian only brew

4.5kg Marris Otter Pale
0.5kg Torrified Wheat
50g @ 60mins
20g @ 15 mins
50g @ heat off cool with immersion and leave for an hour
30g @ dry

Around 30 IBU

Challenger only brew

4.5kg Marris Otter Pale
0.5kg Torrified Wheat
30g @ 60mins
5g @ 15 mins
35g @ heat off cool with immersion and leave for an hour
30g @ dry

Around 40 IBU

What do you think of those as a starting point? I would be very keen to hear alterations to those that didn't leave the 'one brew - one hop' idea.

retourrbx · Post by **retourrbx** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 1:48 pm

and what do you think of the above two as a start?

prodigal2 · Post by **prodigal2** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 2:19 pm

They look quite high OG if you're going for a 18L brewlength (I'm guessing in the +1,060 area), so you may want to either balance the hops to meet the OG or lower the grain bill.
Are you using Ross's recipe he posted in the Challenger thread? if so don't forget that his brewlength was 27L for a 5%ish beer.

What is the AA% of the hops you are using?

retourrbx · Post by **retourrbx** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 3:42 pm

DaaB - looking at it, it would achieve next to nothing I agree.. I'll act on that advice. Will take into account the temp

P2

One of the last brew I did was with 4.7kg pale and ended up with 22.5L @ 1.042

After that I did was 4.6kg pale getting 18.5 @ 1.046... this however got an infection and went bad - had to pour it all on the leeks

there seems to be a fairly large difference in effieciency if I use Campden to treat the water - 55 v 67% :-\

I've had 3 pints of my first Styrian... everything is a little hazy... SWMBO is back from Edinburgh in 1.5 hours.. hmmmm

prodigal2 · Post by **prodigal2** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 4:20 pm

retourrbx sorry for the assumption

In which case I would say your recipes look fine, though you may want to bring the challenger down to 35IBU's if your not into too bitter ales.

Out of interest how do you sparge?

retourrbx · Post by **retourrbx** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:12 pm

I batch sparge - 19L to mash and then 10L to sparge...

prodigal2 · Post by **prodigal2** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:27 am

retourrbx wrote:I batch sparge - 19L to mash and then 10L to sparge...

I think that may be your problem with your fluctuating efficiency, have a look at DaaBs batch sparge page:
http://www.18000feet.com/batch_sparging ... ing_p1.htm

and then use DaaBs batch sparge calc to work out the volumes you require for the process:
http://www.18000feet.com/calculators/ba ... lator.html

I think looking at your process it will be why you are having such eratic efficiency, and a lowish one at that. I think your mash far to slack and then to make your volume you are not rinsing the grain well enough.
After your boil how close are you to your brew length? I only ask as I also make 18L batches

Anyhow I HTH and any questions fire away

Alton_Bee · Post by **Alton_Bee** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:46 pm

retourrbx wrote:I batch sparge - 19L to mash and then 10L to sparge...

Would suggest you try switching it around so you mash with 10 litres and sparge with 19.

retourrbx · Post by **retourrbx** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:20 pm

Thanks for the advice.

I had a go on the calculator and have some questions if you could have a look. I've decided to go for 23 Litres - if the efficiency is better then that should some out at about 1.045.

What should I put for "Enter Water/Grain Ratio for the Mash in Litres"? I'm using 4.5kg pale malt and 0.5kg torrified wheat.

At what point in the mash should I "top up with x liters of water?" Does that mean top up the mash tun or does it mean add the water into the boiler once it has drained? Should this water be the same as the mashing water?

NB Im using a 45litre mash tun (coleman cool box) so space in the tun isn't a problem...

Finally what is normal loss to hops and trub? I only know what I start to boil with and what I am left with - therefore I'm not sure on what loss is due to evaopration and what is to hops and trub... in my last brew I ran off 23L and boiled it for an hour down to 18.5L there is 1L dead space in my boiler

Many thanks for the help chaps

prodigal2 · Post by **prodigal2** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:09 pm

retourrbx wrote: I had a go on the calculator and have some questions if you could have a look. I've decided to go for 23 Litres - if the efficiency is better then that should some out at about 1.045.

sounds about right

retourrbx wrote:What should I put for "Enter Water/Grain Ratio for the Mash in Litres"? I'm using 4.5kg pale malt and 0.5kg torrified wheat.

I would go for 2.5L per kg as per DaaBs suggestion, it is a good basis for normal ales

retourrbx wrote:At what point in the mash should I "top up with x liters of water?" Does that mean top up the mash tun or does it mean add the water into the boiler once it has drained? Should this water be the same as the mashing water?

Once you have mashed at your specified temperature, for your specific period, add your top up licour stir let sit for 10 mins, recirculate till you have a clear wort(no grain particles). Then drain your tun.
Then add you second top-up and repeat the above process

retourrbx wrote:Finally what is normal loss to hops and trub? I only know what I start to boil with and what I am left with - therefore I'm not sure on what loss is due to evaopration and what is to hops and trub... in my last brew I ran off 23L and boiled it for an hour down to 18.5L there is 1L dead space in my boiler

That is a bit down to knowing your system but for a 23L batch I would imagine about 3-4L.

What kind of boiler do you use out of interest?

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Single Hop brews

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