Haze - The Poll

Get advice on making beer from raw ingredients (malt, hops, water and yeast)

Do you suffer with protein/chill haze?

Not at all, producing polished beer
13
30%
Producing clear beer, no haze, but not 'polished'
23
53%
Producing hazy beer - just like Wez
7
16%
 
Total votes: 43

Wez

Haze - The Poll

Post by Wez » Tue Sep 25, 2007 10:31 pm

I'm interested to know how many of us are in the "VossyWez Protein Haze Gang"...please answer considering what your beers are normally like.

Honesty is the best policy :wink:

Oh and if you are getting good results, tell us why you think you are - just like DaaB & BigEd have below 8)
Last edited by Wez on Tue Sep 25, 2007 11:11 pm, edited 2 times in total.

BigEd

Post by BigEd » Tue Sep 25, 2007 10:52 pm

No haze here, I like the beer to have a finished look about it. My Continental malt mashes get an intermediate rest and all my beers get cold-conditioned then fined with gelatine.

Vossy1

Post by Vossy1 » Tue Sep 25, 2007 11:16 pm

Do I really need to make a comment...even to clarify things :lol: :cry:

Wez

Post by Wez » Tue Sep 25, 2007 11:18 pm

Vossy1 wrote:Do I really need to make a comment...even to clarify things :lol: :cry:
:lol: :lol:

Vossy1

Post by Vossy1 » Tue Sep 25, 2007 11:21 pm

I'm going to try and avoid cross over...hazing the issue.... by posting in 'haze' :wink: :roll:

subsub

Post by subsub » Tue Sep 25, 2007 11:31 pm

Only had one chill haze about 10 years ago, but that was a kit that I hadn't mucked about with properly :(

Edit:- I don't really know why I don't get them either, could be down to good water treatment or good ingredients who knows?

Seveneer

Post by Seveneer » Wed Sep 26, 2007 12:05 am

I've never really had a haze problem. I've certainly drunk hazy beer but that was before I brewed enough to allow it to clear naturally :roll:

I have noticed that my beer clears quicker now I adjust the pH of the liquor and mash. If I want to get polished beer quickly I use gelatine; one sachet per 5 gallons. This way I can get a 1.040ish bitter crystal clear and drinkable within 10 days. But my strong ales clear naturally in about 2-3 weeks anyway.

In addition to the pH of the sparge liquor and mash I also stop sparging at about 15-20 rather than 10 gravity points to avoid tannins as they can cause hazes

From the CBA web page on Beer Hazes
Tannins are important molecules in brewing and derive from both hops and malt. They have the capacity to react with proteins during wort boiling to form the hot break; during cooling to form the cold break; and post fermentation when they are involved in the formation of chill haze and permanent hazes.


/Phil.

prodigal2

Post by prodigal2 » Wed Sep 26, 2007 9:59 am

I have clear beers until I hit 8C and then it is chill haze central.While this is not a problem for me as I drink in the 10-15C temp range, for the locals and the SWMBO who drink their beers colder I tend to feel a tad embarrassed, but they taste good so they tend not to notice.
I think my problems either come from cold spots in my MT or the grain, which comes from Brewferm.
But at ale temps I have been getting consistent clear beers, soooooooooo................ :pink: :pink:

J_P

Post by J_P » Wed Sep 26, 2007 10:17 am

I'm inclined to agree with P2 yes my beers are hazy however they only seem to get hazy at below 10C and seeing as I like to serve them above that point then it's not really something I'm bothered about. I'm not too sure if there's an option abouve to reflect this though :lol:

I'm probably never going to win any awards for the ale I produce however I enjoy drinking it (as do friends and family) and isn't that what we make beer for? If they don't like the haze then they can buy their own bloody beer :lol:

subsub

Post by subsub » Wed Sep 26, 2007 10:22 am

J_P wrote: If they don't like the haze then they can buy their own bloody beer :lol:
Well said =D>

mysterio

Post by mysterio » Wed Sep 26, 2007 11:15 am

Clear beer here, It's important to me and I don't feel i've made a completed beer until its bright. I've picked up a lot of tips and tricks from books and forums like these. I guess my main tricks are:

1) Use whirlfloc in the boil and chill with an immersion chiller while stirring to achieve quick cooling, and leave most of the cold break behind in the kettle using whole hops as a filter.

2) Watch the mash Ph (5.2 stabiliser) and dont oversparge.

3) Use a yeast that flocculates quickly like Safale s04 and low protein British malts like GP or MO. If your using lager malt or a poor floccing yeast like US05 then give it weeks at cool/cold temperatures.

Most of the times that will do it, however I'll sometimes filter if i'm in a rush.

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Post by Jim » Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:45 pm

I voted 2, although if the beers are left for months, they do take on the polish.
NURSE!! He's out of bed again!

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iowalad
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Post by iowalad » Wed Sep 26, 2007 5:12 pm

Same as Daab here.

fraserjaxx

Post by fraserjaxx » Wed Sep 26, 2007 6:42 pm

I'm with Wez.Still a little bit hazy but almost there if you know what I mean. I have stopped chilling my beers so I can't put it down to chill haze.I bought some finings at the brewshop but haven't used them yet as I read they can take a bit of flavour away?.I also got some whirlfloc tablets that I haven't used yet as I still have some IM left.I don't really mind a little haze ,but cloudy would not be good.I am still a beginner so just making good beer is enough at the moment ,I will start to fine tune things as I progress.

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Post by Horden Hillbilly » Wed Sep 26, 2007 8:22 pm

Option 2 for me, while my beers do clear up they never seem to be as clear as those on the supermarket/off licence shelves.

Who cares though, after they sit under flourescent lighting in the shops for a while our home made beers will taste far better, that's what it is all about as far as I am concerned!

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