Its not ignorance at all, I had not heard of it before my daughter chose go into it as a business, body camoflage is the covering of scars and birth marks, and some birth defects things like making false ears etc.cockneyron wrote:Carphunter excuse my ignorance![]()
Whats "body camoflage"
Stainless Boiler - 3kW Immersion elements
I don't think I would have known what 'body camouflage' was either. What a great thing to do.CarpHunter wrote:Its not ignorance at all, I had not heard of it before my daughter chose go into it as a business, body camoflage is the covering of scars and birth marks, and some birth defects things like making false ears etc.cockneyron wrote:Carphunter excuse my ignorance![]()
Whats "body camoflage"

Following on from some excellent advice on this thread especially from Sparky Paul, I've been busy today in the garage doing some wiring to power the HLT and boiler. I would have liked some of that thick white plastic on the walls first, the sort you get in food prep areas, but I can do that at a later date.
The HLT and boiler each will have 2 x 3Kw immersion heaters in them so there are four 16A sockets. They are being fed by a separate consumer unit with RCD and two 32A MCBs. This in turn is fed from the main fuse box. I have some heat resistant cable to go from the 16A sockets to the heaters themselves. They will later be wired into some sort of control panel with double pole switches, probably 4 cooker type switches or something.
Next job is to get those elements fitted into the boiler.

The HLT and boiler each will have 2 x 3Kw immersion heaters in them so there are four 16A sockets. They are being fed by a separate consumer unit with RCD and two 32A MCBs. This in turn is fed from the main fuse box. I have some heat resistant cable to go from the 16A sockets to the heaters themselves. They will later be wired into some sort of control panel with double pole switches, probably 4 cooker type switches or something.
Next job is to get those elements fitted into the boiler.

Cheers Scoob,
Mine came from H&G, it's some Italian manufacturer which wasn't listedon the site. I know he does 50 litre ones from various suppliers, Brupaks being one of them. They tend to be a bit more expensive than Nordic though. When he saw my Nordic thermobox to measure it for a false bottom, he said it looked well made and couldn't understand how they are so cheap. I agree, especially now with most metals, namely stainless/copper going through the roof.
Mine came from H&G, it's some Italian manufacturer which wasn't listedon the site. I know he does 50 litre ones from various suppliers, Brupaks being one of them. They tend to be a bit more expensive than Nordic though. When he saw my Nordic thermobox to measure it for a false bottom, he said it looked well made and couldn't understand how they are so cheap. I agree, especially now with most metals, namely stainless/copper going through the roof.
Thanks for that Garth, I've called everyone else and was waiting for them to return from hols to ring them.
The thermo boxes are excellent value and good quality, I think i could justify spending a bit more on a boiler
having already saved on the thermo box.
But will that reasoning stand up to interrogation?
Edit. When they start coming from China and not Italy they will be cheaper
The thermo boxes are excellent value and good quality, I think i could justify spending a bit more on a boiler
having already saved on the thermo box.

But will that reasoning stand up to interrogation?

Edit. When they start coming from China and not Italy they will be cheaper

have you fired them up yet Garth? mine are all wired up now but not tried them. used some immersion tails from toolstation into the same 16A connectors that you have used. I have sealed the connection with instant gasket to ensure no liquids find a way in. it is also heat resistant !Garth wrote:exactly, fusebox and water tap on the same wall, what more could you ask
firing the beast up on Sunday hopefully. if your lights go dim in the West Country you know why. I have warned the National Grid to have more Power Stations and Gas Turbines on standby ready to catch the frequency dip

nope, not yet buzzrtbi, have a tiny bit more wiring to do that Saprky Paul suggested and then I need another holesaw for the second element as even though I cooled it while cutting I've still blunted the first one.
adding a sight tube on the side in a moment
what did you use as the sealant around the element wire cover?

adding a sight tube on the side in a moment
what did you use as the sealant around the element wire cover?
it is some grey instant gasket from Halfords. it is effectively a high temperature silicone that you use on car engines as manifold gasket etc. I figured that if it can withstand the heat and pressure from a car engine it is more than up to the job of keeping the odd splash of boiling wort.Garth wrote:nope, not yet buzzrtbi, have a tiny bit more wiring to do that Saprky Paul suggested and then I need another holesaw for the second element as even though I cooled it while cutting I've still blunted the first one.![]()
adding a sight tube on the side in a moment
what did you use as the sealant around the element wire cover?
there are lots available - cost about £4. do you want the make?
what additional did Sparky Paul recommend?
Re: Stainless Boiler - 3kW Immersion elements
Yes, Stainless welds itself to other stainless, it even repairs scratches and such on it's surface. When unscrewing you will break the backnut from the whatever stainless it is touching - called galling. This is why backnuts and washers are fitted with different material. You should be happy with the brass ;-pThey are stainless steel, not copper, nickel or incalloy so they should last a while, also they come with the elusive backnut which I've had trouble finding, although it's brass and I would have preferred ss.
any thoughts, comments?
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I/m looking at fitting out my Femtobrewery with these connectors, where did yours come from and how much were they? B&Q / RS / CPC want silly prices for them. Ebay is looking OK ish . . . . Ideally though some 16A Kettle type connectors would be my preferred option as they are so much smaller than Commando connectorsGarth wrote:The HLT and boiler each will have 2 x 3Kw immersion heaters in them so there are four 16A sockets. <snip> I have some heat resistant cable to go from the 16A sockets to the heaters themselves.
www.screwfix.com and search for 16A
think they are cheaper? in Toolstation
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electri ... 190/sd2430
get the wall mounted connectors (blue) like Garth has in his pics. while you are at it you can get 4 x immersion heater cables only a couple of quid each. note the length though - may not be long enough for your requirements?
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electri ... 190/sd2430
get the wall mounted connectors (blue) like Garth has in his pics. while you are at it you can get 4 x immersion heater cables only a couple of quid each. note the length though - may not be long enough for your requirements?