Making my cool box mash tun/sparger
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Bigster
cuts every 6mm and 1/2 way through definitely needed if using 15mm copper - may not need as much on 22mm-
Vossy1
I'm not too sure I'd put the cross piece in my manifold like your RR.
If you look at the picture of the manifold and count the number of slots that have been lost on the hoizontal lengths and compare it to those gained on the verticle section, its either roughly the same or some have been lost
But at the end of the day, who cares as long as there are no stuck mashes
My next hunt is for some pre perforated tube for a hop strainer, or I'll make my own :blink:
If you look at the picture of the manifold and count the number of slots that have been lost on the hoizontal lengths and compare it to those gained on the verticle section, its either roughly the same or some have been lost
But at the end of the day, who cares as long as there are no stuck mashes
My next hunt is for some pre perforated tube for a hop strainer, or I'll make my own :blink:
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Road Runner
QUOTE (Vossy1 @ Aug 7 2006, 10:52 PM) I'm not too sure I'd put the cross piece in my manifold like your RR.
If you look at the picture of the manifold and count the number of slots that have been lost on the hoizontal lengths and compare it to those gained on the verticle section, its either roughly the same or some have been lost
I just followed other examples described & shown in pics on this forum.
Seems to work excellently so far I have to say. No probs at all with stuck runnoff. Even have to shut the tap down on the tun as it runs off so fast.
If you look at the picture of the manifold and count the number of slots that have been lost on the hoizontal lengths and compare it to those gained on the verticle section, its either roughly the same or some have been lost
I just followed other examples described & shown in pics on this forum.
Seems to work excellently so far I have to say. No probs at all with stuck runnoff. Even have to shut the tap down on the tun as it runs off so fast.
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Vossy1
Perforated copper sheet I've found, tube not yet.
I will turn the maifold with slits facing downwards when I go to use it.
RR I just hope mine works, yours is well sorted.
Still on the hunt for a boiler. The cheapest 30ltr Ive found is the swan one on e-bay for £79.
Does anyone know if the keep hot facility will prevent a full on boil?
I e-mailed the bloke and there is no adjustable thermo, its all automatic so I'm a bit wary, if a full rolling boil is required.
RR once run off is complete do you empty the boiler and the pour the run off into the boiler from the collection bucket ?
When you boil the run off, do you start the count on the boiling time immediately or when it reaches boiling point? Sill Q but I've got to ask :rolleyes:
I will turn the maifold with slits facing downwards when I go to use it.
RR I just hope mine works, yours is well sorted.
Still on the hunt for a boiler. The cheapest 30ltr Ive found is the swan one on e-bay for £79.
Does anyone know if the keep hot facility will prevent a full on boil?
I e-mailed the bloke and there is no adjustable thermo, its all automatic so I'm a bit wary, if a full rolling boil is required.
RR once run off is complete do you empty the boiler and the pour the run off into the boiler from the collection bucket ?
When you boil the run off, do you start the count on the boiling time immediately or when it reaches boiling point? Sill Q but I've got to ask :rolleyes:
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Vossy1
Should have put this question in my Stairway to Heaven thread, there's some cross over...oh well.
DaaB, JA posted a similar suggestion about the dual element boiler. I assume this is a stock pot with elements fitted.
I must confess that when struggling to find a boiler last night, I did start pricing stock pots up. It certainly seems cheaper to make your own.
My only concern was, believe it or not, was what size drill bit do you need and where can you get them from :blink:
My second thought was to use a external gas ring and propane bottle, as I alreaday have these for boiling particles for my fishing hobby.
Having said that, it would mean moving 20+litres of boiling water about and I dont like that idea, although I do it regularly when fishing abroad.
Not too bad dropping that amount of water on the grass but dropping it on a tiled floor, with two sausage dogs abou,t and under my feet...terrifing
Going to look for more stock pots and elements now.
Funny how the mind works !
DaaB, JA posted a similar suggestion about the dual element boiler. I assume this is a stock pot with elements fitted.
I must confess that when struggling to find a boiler last night, I did start pricing stock pots up. It certainly seems cheaper to make your own.
My only concern was, believe it or not, was what size drill bit do you need and where can you get them from :blink:
My second thought was to use a external gas ring and propane bottle, as I alreaday have these for boiling particles for my fishing hobby.
Having said that, it would mean moving 20+litres of boiling water about and I dont like that idea, although I do it regularly when fishing abroad.
Not too bad dropping that amount of water on the grass but dropping it on a tiled floor, with two sausage dogs abou,t and under my feet...terrifing
Going to look for more stock pots and elements now.
Funny how the mind works !
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Road Runner
QUOTE (Vossy1 @ Aug 7 2006, 11:50 PM)
RR once run off is complete do you empty the boiler and the pour the run off into the boiler from the collection bucket ?
When you boil the run off, do you start the count on the boiling time immediately or when it reaches boiling point? Sill Q but I've got to ask :rolleyes:
Yep, correct again.
I sparge & collect the runnoff in a large 30 litre fermenter bucket, untill I've collected about 28-29 litres.
Ideally, you should sparge untill the runnoff is coming out at a gravity of about 1.006 But as the runnoff is hot & my hydrometer is calibrated to 20'c, this wouldn't be an accurate reading. I know I could cool a small amount of runnoff to measure, or compensate for the readings on the hydrometer, but I can't be bothered to do that.
Once I have a full fermenter bucket, I empty the rest of my sparge water from the boiler & as you say, just tip the wort into the boiler & bring to the boil.
I start timing the boil once my wort has a good rolling boil & the hops are added.
My boiler is only 29 litres, so I fill it to leave enough space at the top of the boiler for the rolling boil, leaving 2-3 litres of wort in my bucket. These 2-3 litres I use to top up the boiler as evapouration reduces the level in the boiler.
Hopefully after a 90 min boil, I'm left with about 25 litres of yummy brew.
RR once run off is complete do you empty the boiler and the pour the run off into the boiler from the collection bucket ?
When you boil the run off, do you start the count on the boiling time immediately or when it reaches boiling point? Sill Q but I've got to ask :rolleyes:
Yep, correct again.
I sparge & collect the runnoff in a large 30 litre fermenter bucket, untill I've collected about 28-29 litres.
Ideally, you should sparge untill the runnoff is coming out at a gravity of about 1.006 But as the runnoff is hot & my hydrometer is calibrated to 20'c, this wouldn't be an accurate reading. I know I could cool a small amount of runnoff to measure, or compensate for the readings on the hydrometer, but I can't be bothered to do that.
Once I have a full fermenter bucket, I empty the rest of my sparge water from the boiler & as you say, just tip the wort into the boiler & bring to the boil.
I start timing the boil once my wort has a good rolling boil & the hops are added.
My boiler is only 29 litres, so I fill it to leave enough space at the top of the boiler for the rolling boil, leaving 2-3 litres of wort in my bucket. These 2-3 litres I use to top up the boiler as evapouration reduces the level in the boiler.
Hopefully after a 90 min boil, I'm left with about 25 litres of yummy brew.
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Bigster
I have 2 cross braces on mine - 2 reasons
1. Allows loads more cuts helping run off and stops danger of all going down sides and affecting efficiency
2. As I havent soldered it any point it was pointed out to me that it is less likely to fall apart due to more combinations of imprecise :rolleyes: lengths.
1. Allows loads more cuts helping run off and stops danger of all going down sides and affecting efficiency
2. As I havent soldered it any point it was pointed out to me that it is less likely to fall apart due to more combinations of imprecise :rolleyes: lengths.
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Bigster
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Vossy1
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Andy
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From the DaaB link I'd get the 33L placcy bin rather than the 30L one.
http://www.hopshopuk.com/cgi-bin/browse ... showfrom=4
http://www.hopshopuk.com/cgi-bin/browse ... showfrom=4